03 August 2009, Torshavn, Faeroes Islands.

The narrow passage for the approach to Torshavn from the West is between the islands Stremoy and Sandoy. Torshavn is located on Stremoy and this island you keep on your portside when coming through. The passage itself is deep and easy to go through, the problem lies with the currents that are setting around the islands. You have to be very alert as the set occurs very quickly and without notice. So it was also this morning. We were nicely sailing over our track line and suddenly the ship was pushed off-course by about 15 degrees. That is a lot and in a narrow passage you have to counteract this set at once to ensure that you stay on your track line. So we did and we moved under this 15 degree angle through the passage. In the middle of the passage the current started to follow the general direction of the passage and the officer of the watch could return to steering the regular course. There is a lot of current between the islands of the Faeroes and tomorrow when we are in the Orkneys there will be even more.

When passed Sandoy we made a sharp turn to the North to approach Torshavn which is located on the East side of Stremoy. A location chosen by the founding fathers, I assume, as it is reasonably sheltered from the predominantly South Westerly winds blowing in from the Atlantic. On the north side of the harbour there is a mountain ridge as well and that helps against the icy Northerly winds. Still Torshavn can be a real blow hole and therefore we were very lucky that there was only a gentle breeze blowing in the port, although out in the open it had been 25 knots. A number of years ago, they upgraded the port considerably and now the largest cruise ships can dock there, provided they can line up into the harbour entrance, which is quite close to the rocks. Especially for large ships, this can be a challenge, even if they are blessed with enormous thruster power.

The Prinsendam is of course a small cruise ship by the current standards and with 200 meters the line up is not so tight for us. On the other hand I do not have that massive thruster power of the newer ships so things equal out I suppose. This morning I docked stern in, in case that the weather would become inclement in the afternoon, which would make it easier to leave. So we swung in front of the port entrance and then backed into the harbour. The breakwater is also the dock and that meant that the ships nose was only just inside the harbour entrance by the time we had the gangway lined up. They do not have a dedicated dock for cruise ships, it is the cargo dock and therefore you are not allowed to walk on the dock. To dangerous with all the fork lifts racing around lifting containers. For that reason the dock has a bus that shuttles guests that are not on tour to the gate. Not a big deal, the gate is right on top of the town itself.

Thorshavn as seen from the ship.

The alternative to docking is anchoring but really only with a South Westerly wind. With any other wind, the wind blows over the strong current close to the harbour and then you get this low close cropped chop of waves which makes the tenders bump up and down and everybody sea sick. With a strong south westerly wind, the ship lays behind its anchor and you can arrange it then in such a way that the bow area with the tender breaks are not in the current. Still Torshavn is quite often cancelled due to the inclement weather. However today we were in luck and we had a great day. It was a sunny day with mild temperatures and only a gentle breeze. A breeze that had shifted to the South East by the time we were leaving and so I had a free tugboat that gently pushed me off the dock.

From Thorshavn it is a straight course down to the North West side of the Orkney Islands and in that direction we headed. By 5 am tomorrow morning we will enter the islands and there we experience some real strong currents. Also the wind is supposed to freshen up and could result in a very interesting arrival.