05 July 2010; Helsinki, Finland.

When we left the pilot of Saint Petersburg behind, we observed flat calm seas, that sort of calmness that makes the waves look oily. This morning there was a faint ripple over the waves but it was nearly wind still and thus we knew that it was going to be a very nice day again. The powers that be had decided in their infinite wisdom that the good ship Prinsendam was going to dock in downtown and thus we headed to the eastern pilot station. There are also cruise ships docks in the Western harbour and they are used when downtown is full or when a cruise ship calls that is too long to fit at any of the downtown berths. Today there were only two cruise ships calling, us, and we are not that big and the Ocean Countess which is even smaller. Hence our scheduled appearance in the downtown or the South port.

The South harbour of Helsinki. The Prinsendam docks where the white cruise ship is located on the right hand side. We are too large to go further in as we cannot swing there for departure.

For the ferries it works the same way. There are ferry company’s who depart from the South port and there are those who depart from the West port; so both parts of the port have regular passenger traffic to process. That can sometimes be confusing and so when we received our pilot on the bridge he at once asked, where do you want to go, as his papers were not very conclusive. It is always a nice idea that the port gives you a choice but, switching at the last moment, plays havoc with the tours as all the buses would be in the wrong location. Thus we went to downtown as scheduled. It is better for the guests anyway, closer to the centre of the city and also much more scenic. For a captain it is a mixed blessing as you have to go through “the hole”. In principle nothing wrong with it, the ferries are doing it everyday several times and so do the pilots but if you look at it from a risk management point of view, the West port is much simpler. However we are in show business and thus we provide the show. Going through the hole, is quite spectacular as from a distance it looks as if it is too small. There is a course change of about 10o in the middle. This is caused by the way the islands on both sides angle. As in the past both sides were fortified, the walls angle as well and that makes it look as if it is too narrow. Only when coming closer the gap is slowly opening up.

The Hole, during sunset. I plucked this picture from the internet as I never have the chance to take a photo myself. Too busy keeping an eye on the pilot. Thanks to whoever took it.

For a captain who always thinks of having a plan B, an alternative available in case something happens, this sort of passage provides a problem. There is basically nowhere. The only thing you really can do is either put the brakes on and hope that you stop on time; or give a kick ahead, to reduce the passage time and hope that you get through. Still, we had taken all precautions possible. All watertight doors were closed, bow thrusters on line, surplus engine power available (for that kick) and the anchor party standby in case things really went wrong. When we get closer for a passage like this, I demand absolute silence on the bridge, so the commands of the pilot and the response from the quartermaster behind the wheel cannot be mis-understood. The chief officer normally stands next to the quartermaster to ensure that the wheel is turned the right way and the officer of the watch puts all the telephones off the hook. (As the Front office always phones about the weather forecast at the most inappropriate moment) Going through “the hole” only takes about two minutes but it is a critical evolution and so there has to be maximum focus. The Southport has a fairly large inner bay and after zigzagging to avoid some rocks and shallow patches the dock can easily be reached. We dock very early in Helsinki, about 05.30 as the tour to Lapland departs at 0600 hrs. If I am too late, the plane goes and the tour has to be cancelled. So in accordance with my principles “being on time is being early, I am docked at least 30 minutes early with the gangway out and ready to go.

Going out is by the same exit, and then we do the exact same routine the other way. As we were leaving at 5 pm, we normally get in a muddle with the ferries which go at the same time and are always in a hurry. However whereas the Prinsendam was doing 16 knots, the ferry Superstar came by doing 26 knots and that solved one issue. The 2nd ferry, the Silja Symphony was going the same way but as she was heading to Mariehamn, the North entrance to Stockholm, and we were going to Sandhamn, the south entrance, I took the wide turn and so we were both happily on our way without any issues.

Tomorrow we will be at daylight at the south pilot station of Stockholm. The weather is supposed to be sunny again and nearly windless and that might mean we could have some hazy stuff between the islands when we are coming in.