It was rainy, overcast and wisps of low clouds were floating over the waters when we turned the ship into Glacier Bay. Still visibility was good and that solved one concern that I had, that the guests would not be able to see the wildlife while we were going through the lower bay. Not a problem there, now we just had to hope that the wildlife would be present. At 07.00 hrs we embarked the Rangers and then we had to push mightily against at a 5 knot ebb current coming out of the bay. Although the Full moon is past, the tides are still strong and this time they were in the adverse. In the Middle Bay we are only allowed to make a speed of 13 knots due to the increased sightings of Whales, and that means that we only made progress through the water with a speed of 13 – 5 = 8 knots. On the way up we did not see many animals. It seemed that everybody slept late today. On the way back it was a lot better, seals, otters with pups on their bellys (sea otters like to back-paddle when they get the chance) and several humpback whales flipping their tails.
By the time we came to Marjorie Glacier the rain had lifted and that is not unusual. The glaciers radiate so much cold over such a large area that the weather directly around the ice field can be totally different from 5 miles further down the inlet. Thus it was this time as well. We could look halfway up the Glacier towards the Fairweather Mountain range. That was already a great improvement compared to last cruise when we had really low hanging clouds. The fact that it remained overcast was only good because it is much better for the colors and the viewing. Sun brings glare and although you might not notice it when standing on deck, your camera will tell the tale later.
What people think that Glacier Bay should be. Clear skies, dry weather and no ice in the way. Mother Nature does not follow the cruise brochure.
The one thing that made it a very cold affair was the cold wind that blew from the South East. Although Marjorie and Grand Pacific are located to the North West from the ships view, to the South East there are more glaciers including the Muir Glacier. When the wind funnels over that glacial area, things can become very nippy. So today all had to dress warmly in order to enjoy Mother Nature.
The ship helps by serving hot pea soup on deck and normally there is gluh-wein for sale as well, to make it all a bit more bearable. In the old days (1982 -1984) we used to go to Muir Glacier. Then it was a Tide water glacier and would show some good calving at times. It has been on the retreat for a long time already but then it suddenly went faster and moved away from the water’s edge. Thus it became of less interest for us to go there. I believe now only small craft go into the inlet. It is also much narrower than Tarr Inlett with Marjorie Glacier, so for the large cruise ships it is not an ideal place anyway. I went there with the old Statendam (IV) and with 25,000 tons and less than 200 meters in length that was more feasible.
The ice floats always look smaller from up high than they really are.
We had a little sightseeing boat to keep us company today and with little I mean about 35 meters long and 4 decks high. One of those high speed Catamarans on day trips that can carry about 120 day guests. With such a ship there, it really hits home how vast the whole area is. We stand on a big ship and think the looming glacier is very close by and then this little boat comes in and changes the perspective. An ice berg that looks fairly small is suddenly high enough to completely block the sightseeing boat from view.
It makes it a lot easier for the guests to understand the careful navigation I have to carry out with dodging small icebergs which are not that small at all. Thus when you look down from a 100 feet high on a ice berg and you say, that is a big one; then it means it is a real BIG one and you do not want to bump into that one at all.
Throughout the day the Park Rangers are explaining to the guests what is there to be seen and how to understand and appreciate it. Especially on a rainy day as today, it is very important to communicate properly that this weather is the right weather to enjoy Glacier Bay and not the sunny cruise brochure photos that everybody thinks about.
By 16.30 we said goodbye to our Park Rangers and moved out of the Bay. Tomorrow we will spend the day sailing through the Gulf of Alaska. This morning’s weather forecast indicated inclement weather with strong easterly winds and building swells, but when we came in open waters it did not look like it at all. Maybe the weather forecast had it wrong and I would not mind that at all.
June 10, 2012 at 1:41 am
Hi Capt. Albert,
The information and descriptions you’ve provided of the Alaskan territories over this past week have been quite enjoyable. I also like the pictures of the small towns, Glaciers and even the gray/ overcast weather and atmosphere. Although I’m currently a ‘warm weather cruiser’, an Alaskan cruise has definately been added to my ‘bucket list’… hopefully when/if I can retire someday!
As always, thank you for your blog.
jacquelyn
June 10, 2012 at 5:06 am
Hi Capt Albert,
I love your blog, especially enjoying your Alaska posts now as I have been on several HAL Alaska cruises. I have a question about the top picture that is posted above. I saw this last August 2011 on Oosterdam, and the land part to the right of the glacier in that picture….back on our first cruise in 1999…was that covered in ice as a glacier then? Last Aug was my 4th cruise, and the 2nd time going to Glacier Bay. When I saw this, I couldn’t believe that it was the same place as in 1999. I was wondering if it was a glacier then, that has now completely retreated to land.
Thank you for doing this blog, it is VERY interesting.
Sue in Nebraska
June 10, 2012 at 10:19 pm
Good morning Sue,
It is still a glacier, it is Grand Pacific Glacier and in 1982 it was about 70% white. By 2000 it was about 40% white. Since then it has been picking up more and more debris on its journey down, so now it is completely black.
It is something the Rangers have to point out all the time as it is hard to believe that a glacier can cover itself in rocks and dirt, but this one does. Maybe in 20 years from now it will be cleaner again.
thank you for reading my blog.
Capt. Albert
June 10, 2012 at 9:04 am
Jacquelyn, this is a marvellous cruise and when the time is right I know you will enjoy it. Another wonderful place to go to is Iceland , also Greenland and the North Cape Norway. Like you I really enjoy these Blogs of Captain Albert,
best wishes Robina, East Yorkshire UK
June 10, 2012 at 10:20 pm
Robina
Thanks
Glad to see that I am not boring you too much.
Best regards
Capt. Albert
June 10, 2012 at 10:40 pm
Our first cruise into Glacier Bay was in 1981 on the Statendam. There is certainly significant changes in the glaciers from then until today.
Certainly enjoy your blog!
June 10, 2012 at 11:06 pm
Thank you Capt. Albert for your answer on the Grand Pacific Glacier. Wow, it looks so different from 13 yrs ago! I’m glad to know that it’s still there and has not retreated badly.
Thank ;you!!
Sue
June 11, 2012 at 12:08 am
Thank you Robina for your encouragement! Right now, we tend to sail from home ports which do not involve the cost of flying…add to that a teenage son (lots of expenses there and school constraints) and the work commitment. However, I will remember your suggestions (I’ve always wanted to do something in Norway) and when the time and money are both in my corner , Alaska, Norway and the Panama Canal are all on my list!! 🙂
jacquelyn
June 11, 2012 at 7:14 am
Thank you for your reply, I fully understand where you are coming from re your destinations, and you are obviously a very different age to me, how lovely to have these ‘goals’ to aim for, they are all lovely places and most interesting, especially in the company of HAL and Captain Albert, best wishes Robina.
June 24, 2012 at 6:53 am
Captain, I booked a July back to back cruise on the Statendam on Friday and now I find you have left! I have sailed with you twice before, on Statendam in 2001 and Maasdam in 2003. You have been elusive since.
Does the cruise no longer go to College Fjord? It was a bit early southbound, but I really liked it northbound.
Enjoy your holiday!
Regards,
Ted