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Ocean Liner History and Stories from the Sea, Past and Present. With an In Depth focus on Holland America Line

13 May 2008, Glacier Bay.

Glacier Bay is located just West of Skagway with only a mountain range in between and that means that the weather is similar to that of Skagway with only a different wind pattern. The latter, because Skagway has this Lynn Canal funnel effect that increases the wind velocity while blowing up the canal. There is however a big difference between the weather in the lower bay, similar to Skagway, and the weather in the upper bay, close to the glaciers. In the upper bay with all its ice there is a sort of micro climate that only follows the weather in the rest of the area if that weather is very pronounced. It means that I can never predict what the weather off the Glaciers is exactly going to be.

The Rangers were on time and so was the Veendam and by 7 am. we had the complete group onboard. Apart from the two Rangers, the bird watcher and the Native interpreter we also had a Ranger Coach on board with two trainees’ to follow the proceedings of the day. All in all a group of seven to show us the sights of the day. This is also the last call of the Veendam to Glacier Bay until September. Next week we start our cruises to Seward and then we call at Hubbard Glacier.

Indeed the micro climate was apparent again and while we sailed up the bay, the weather got better and better. By the time we arrived at the glacier the sun was shining through the clouds and lit up the top of Marjorie Glacier. It was going to be a good day.

Sailing in Glacier Bay is an exercise of close cooperation between the ship and the Rangers. In order to get our yearly entry permits, we have to live up to the Rangers expectations of being good custodians of nature. Holland America has always obtained the maximum number of permits available for Glacier Bay entry’s so we are doing well but we have to work hard to keep our record up. The Glacier Bay National Park organization sets a number of requirements that we have to comply with in the bay to ensure a maximum enjoyment for the guests. It is up to the Captain to juggle all the requirements, both Rangers and company, and balance them into a perfect day.

The time spent in the bay in accordance with the company’s schedule is from 7 am to 4 pm. In that time I have to get up the bay to the Glaciers and back to the Ranger station. For the Rangers I have spent a minimum of 5 hours in the Upper Bay and at least 1 full hour in front of a Glacier. When there are a lot of whales around in the lower bay, speed restrictions are imposed so we can stop quicker in case a whale would cross our bow. This all requires different speeds and at the same time I have to make sure that the funnel emissions are kept to an absolute minimum. Further on the tidal currents change every day, so one cruise I can have 4 knots against me and the next week 3 knots with me.

Finally I have to take into account that I might not be able to make the speed that I calculated, based on all the requirements listed above, as I do not know how much ice there will be until we reach the glaciers. If there is a lot of ice, I have to go much slower in order not to damage the ships hull, than otherwise would be the case.

Every captain has to deal with this “Glacier Bay puzzle” and nearly all the time the pieces come together exactly and we all have a great day and we had one today. Sun on Marjorie Glacier, we managed to have a peek into John Hopkins although there was quite a bit of ice and we did all exactly on schedule. The Rangers disembarked just after 4 pm. and by 4.30 pm the bingo could start for those who were “natured out”. While sailing out of the bay we saw a lot of whales so those still intently watching on the outside decks were not disappointed. Even the sea lions were out on the rock when we exited North Inian Pass for open sea.

Tomorrow we are in Ketchikan and according to weather forecast it is going to be a windy and rainy day.

( Note: There is a map of Glacier bay on the blog of 6 May)

1 Comment

  1. an awesome day spent in god’s cathedral. Thank you

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