17 October 2012; Panama Canal.

It was very busy at the anchorage with waiting ships, as well with ships going in and coming out. In the past there was only the West anchorage above the military area opposite Cristobal. But since they have built the Manzanillo container terminal to the East of Cristobal things are not that straight forward anymore. If you went through the canal and you had to wait you were ordered to anchor at the anchorage. Main reason for that being was Traffic Control at Cristobal signal station, then at least knew where you were and how to reach you. Now ships destined for Manzanillo do not anchor anymore but just float off the entrance area. Most of them are clever enough to stay out of the main approach and exit route, but not all of them. That can make it quite tight to get to the sea buoy on busy days. One day there is going to be a horrendous collision and then everybody will scramble to create another anchorage. At the moment the Panama Canal authority can only regulate what goes to or comes from the Canal and Manzanillo port does not get involved with what happens outside their port boundary.

The Balsa 85, a small standard size cargoship. The company has them built them in series, hence the poetic name of Balsa 85.

So we had to dodge a few ships to get to where we wanted to go, including convincing a cargo ship coming out the canal that he was in our way, and that we were in his way, and if nothing happened that there would be a collision then; so we told him that he had to go to starboard and we would go to starboard as well, creating just enough room for both of us to sail safely by. After a few moments of silence the penny dropped and the Balsa 85 did what it was expected to do under the Rules of the Road. It was still pitch dark, so I had to Google the ship, to find out what it looked like in daylight.

The magic box of the pilots. Here indicating that the ships speed is zero. In big numbers so it can be seen farther away and the pilot does not have to rely on the ships instruments. It can also show an overview of the whole canal with the positions of each ship in the convoy.

At the appointed time of 05.30 we entered the Canal and a most eager pilot hopped onboard, even before we were inside Cristobal Breakwaters. Then the whole circus started again, for the clearance of the ship. The Panama Canal technician brought the navigation computer to the bridge and was most interested if our window wipers were working, as there would be rain after the Continental Divide. They were working of course as it is not only the pilot who wants like to look out of the window. Nowadays each pilot in the canal brings a magic box on which he can see the progress of each ship in the canal and can also measure very precisely how much speed the ship has to make to arrive exactly at the correct time at the next locks. By going a bit slower, or a bit faster, you avoid having to wait near the locks and that frees up Tugboat use. Not every ship has a bow and stern thruster and thus would require 2 tugboats to be in attendance while hovering.

Sailing through the anchorage area as seen on the radar. The Statendam has the white line, indicating our heading and speed.

By 07.00 we entered the Gatun locks and near 08.00 we received the news that the all traffic had been stopped West of Gamboa. The cause was severe haziness and very low hanging clouds, courtesy of the fact that there was no wind blowing. We were directed to go to anchor for 2 hours. I was not happy with that, because a. the staff captain will get a dirty anchor and b it is boring. So I asked permission to sail around the anchorage area. This would give all the guests a chance to see the new locks being built at the Atlantic side.

And the same anchorage when looking out of the window to starboard.

Normally you cannot see this when you sail through the canal as it is hidden by a small mountain. Pilot had no objection and left me to it. The Panama Canal lady narrator was an old friend of his and it gave him time to catch up. So I brought the ship as close as I could to the building site and then did a 360o spin. In the same way as we do the balcony maneuver in Glacier Bay so everybody can have a good view. In the meantime the navigator kept an eye on the traffic to see when things started moving again.

The new locks on the atlantic side. You can see stragiht thru to the open sea. This is normally not seen by cruiseship guests as the ships sail on the otherside of the mountain, or unless you anchor in the canal such as the Zuiderdam does on her tender call at Gatun Lake.

The haziness lifted quicker than expected and after an hour we were on our way. I then sailed past via the far end of the anchorage where nobody ever goes, so the guests could see the car carriers, the container ships, the chemical tankers, the bulk carriers all from very nearby. All free of charge, and only on the Statendam, courtesy of Holland America.
The pilot must have thought I was doing a good job, as he never took the Conn back, and so I happily sailed my own ship through the Canal. Normally I sit there the whole day, closely watching the pilot and doing nothing. This time it was the other way around. I did the driving and the pilots were watching. I think they found it very interesting, as they only work with rudder orders, while we nearly always work with Rate of Turn to go around corners. I will explain some more about that in the future.

Rain in Miraflores Locks as captured from the Webcam at the lock by Marco van den Nouland brother of the ships Staff Captain Jan van den Nouland.

By 11.00 it started to really cloud over and by 13.00 hrs. when we entered Miguel locks the heavens opened. Not very nice, but on the other hand, rain is an integral part of the canal operation. No rain, no Canal transit, as it is all rain water that fills the locks.

By 17.00 hrs. everybody was off the ship and we sailed out of the canal entrance near Balboa. To finish the day off, we had another ship in the way, the Sunbelt Sunrise, a car carrier. And for the same reason; we are all on the same track line while going to or coming from the canal. Again after a little conversation we both changed course to starboard and all was well in the world. I had been on the bridge from 04.00 to 18.00 hrs. but had enjoyed myself immensely, as it was only the 2nd time in my career that I was allowed to Conn my ship through the canal myself.

The weather had been half/half, but I think the guests still had a very good day, as it was not so burning hot as it can be otherwise. Tomorrow we go sightseeing in Golfo Dulce and I need dry weather for that, so I hope that it rains a lot tonight.