21 May 2012; B.C Inside Passage.

With a 14 knot speed we pottered through Georgia Strait, north of Vancouver Island up to Seymour Narrows. Slack tide was at 00.40 in the morning and so we aimed for the entrance to the actual area for 23.15. This is called Cape Mudge. From there it is 45 minutes with 12 knots to get to the actual Narrows itself. When we pass Campbell River with its town and pulp mill we have to stay below 13 knots anyway to prevent wake and the pilots and ships together decided a long time ago that it is much easier for everybody if we do the whole stretch at slow speed. So the tradition and routine has become a ‘ you aim for Cape Mudge at a time 45 minutes before the actual Narrows passage time’. The Narrows are so important as it is the only way to get up and down the coast without having to go around the whole of Vancouver Island. For most cruise ships there is no other way of getting to Alaska than by going through. Occasionally there are ships who take the outside route (especially if you are doing Sitka – Seattle) in high summer when the weather is nice. It has the advantage that you get set an average speed, you do not need pilots for the inside passage part and you do not have to deal with Seymour Narrows.

We are on the Vancouver – Ketchikan route, both Northbound and Southbound and thus we do the Narrows. Tonight we had a quiet night, with only two ships on the opposing side, a tug and tow and a large fishing boat. The rule is that the ships that are going against the tide, (bucking the tide) have to wait for ships with following tide if there is the chance of meeting in the Narrows at the same time. So the tug and fishing boat waited North of Separation Head for us to come through. So a very quiet night for going through and we happily followed the Celebrity Century at a 2 mile distance, while lining up for the gap.

Then the night was enlivened by sailing boat XXXX. Its skipper had decided to go through the Narrows at midnight and was coming straight down the middle; where the big ships go. We call that a “deep draft sailing vessel” as its draft MUST exceed at least 100 feet; otherwise it would not be there. So the Century told it in no uncertain terms to get out of the way. A passing arrangement was made Green to Green, which was then changed by the sailing boat to Green to Red.

Now we were all holding our breath because as we expected the idiot tried to cut across the Century’s bow to the other side again. But that did not happen. Now the pilot got confused as the sailing boat sailed on the east side of the channel but kept showing a red light. Looking at my plot of him on the radar I then realized that he had his running lights the wrong way around. I informed my pilot accordingly that we had to do some upside-down thinking to deal with this guy. Then as we thought he would, he cut back to the middle of the fairway as soon as he was past the Century and now he was showing his green light; on his portside. So our pilot called him to tell him that and we got the cheerful answer, Yes I will pass safely, green to red, port to port.

We reported our deep drafted sailor, who veered back again to mid channel as soon as he was clear of us, to Traffic Control, who took him to a very private VHF channel to try to explain him the Rules of the Road and the fact that he had his running lights upside down. I think what happened was that in the Marina they packed the running lights away (combined lights hooked up on the bow) and when they started sailing, somehow installed them upside down. My problem with these guys are two fold: A. if you want to be stupid that is fine but why endanger wife and child who are sleeping down below: B. If you spend $ 300,000 on a yacht, why not spend $ 7.50 on a small booklet called: The Rules of the Road. Another expression for these people is W.A.F.I. I will not elaborate on that as I do not write rude things on my blog.

After that we happily sailed through Chatham & Johnstone Strait, passed Race Passage and via Blackney Pass back into deeper waters. My standby lasted from 23.30 until 06.00 before we reached wider waters and I can happily report that nothing has changed in the 3 years I have not been here.

By 10 am. We were passed Pine Island and into Queen Charlotte Strait. There the weather took a turn for the worse with rain and wind so our first day was not a great one.

Tomorrow we will be in Ketchikan and they are predicting 20% chance of showers and that is not bad for Ketchikan where it rains 332 days out of the year.