At 05.00 in the morning Fanning Island appeared on the radar, something we had not expected as the island is very low. However we then deducted that it had to do with the density of the trees on the island ring. The chart indicated “dense forest”, but what is dense? A few palm trees with shrubbery or dense jungle; no idea, the sailing directions and the chart were not very clear. After sunrise we realized that dense in this case meant dense as in Jungle-dense. The trees on the island are very closely grouped together and that produced a clear reflection on the radar. We approached from the north, sailed by via the west side staying about 2 miles clear and in 2,000 feet of water. North of the island it was blowing 30 knots and thus we already knew we would be at the mercy of the wind and swell and the angle under which it would hit the island on the south side. All preparation started as normal. Tenders were prepared, the tender platforms taken out of their deep sea- safe locking position and the sb anchor walked out as a failsafe in case something would happen to the ships propulsion while I was slowly moving near the shore.
High waves rolling in. If you stand 75 feet above the water it does not look that bad but if you are in the tender 8 feet is not pleasant.
By 06.30 we were in position, drifting, and it did not look good. The swell and wind were from the SE and running freely towards the island. Basically we would be running a tender service in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, as if the island was not there at all. Not a pleasant thought. So I brought the ship as close as safely possible to the shore, 1,800 ft off the beach but still in deep water of 500 feet. Closer was not possible as a 1,000 ft. from the shore the depth suddenly decreases to 20 feet and that is only enough if you want a permanent hotel on the island.
Next step was to rig up the tender platform to see how much swell there would be running along the platform while I was making the best lee possible. The 2nd officer supervising stepped on the platform and reported getting wet feet. Not good. 1 to 2 feet of swell all the time. That meant 1 to 2 feet of bobbing tender and that is dangerous. Then I decided to lower a tender to see how the ride would be towards the island. That ride was not good, the tender slammed on the waves and rolled from side to side. That would mean that I would have 1,200 sick guests going to and from the island. Getting sea sick on the ship is not nice, but getting sea sick in a tender adds a whole new dimension to it.
Part of the ancient chart that we use for calling at Fanning Island. In our case it is digitized for our navigation computer but it is a chart from the past. the cluster of numbers are logged times that we were hovering there. the big circle is the ship sailing away.
That left me no other option than to wait to see if things might improve. There is always the hope that the wind would start to act in accordance with the weather forecast. It did not and thus by 08.30. I had to abort the call as the swell was only deepening. It did start out with waves of 5 to 7 feet but by 08.30 it was increasing to 8 to 10 feet. This was not going to work, so why hang about?
In the back of my mind there was of course the plan we had for donations for the island. We had items on board from the beginning of the cruise and the guests had been very active in increasing those donations quite a lot. It is not something that influenced my decision; SAFETY COMES FIRST AND NOTHING ELSE, but I wondered if I could do something. I could not. In order to get the donations ashore, the ship needs to be cleared. Those are the rules. When we clear the ship, the local authority is entitled to the port taxes $ 10,500 in this case. When I am not sending guests ashore due to weather etc. all guests are entitled by law to get their port tax back, as it is not a part of their cruise ticket, but a government added cost. (The only exception is if I would substitute one port for another) Thus that would be another $ 10,500 so we would be facing a total bill of $ 21,000 to get these boxes ashore. That of course is something I cannot do and there is no legal way around it. Hopefully we can still do something in one of the French islands. Very disappointing as I know that a lot of people where looking forward to it.
So we turned away from the island and started our 3 day trek to Bora Bora. Today the sea will remain wobbly and it will remain windy. Tomorrow it is all supposed to die down…………. Just why not the other way around?
December 5, 2012 at 9:27 pm
Dear Captain,
Guess it wasn’t to be for this trip.
Can you save and deliver the donations to Fanning Island when the ship returns in February? Please contact me if you want my help.
The passengers so wanted to help Fanning. If you must remove the donations from ship contact me as well for best suggestions.
December 5, 2012 at 9:54 pm
On the 5th of December we have in the Netherlands “Sinterklaas”. It is something like Santa Claus. There are presents and there is always a small poem, made by Sint.
And though the captain is far away, Sint has been able to find him.
Captain,
Sint was looking for the captain at sea
In the Netherlands he could not be found
So he sent out a C.Q.D.
He must be somewhere here around
But no he is at the other end of the Earth
In the Pacific Ocean
Trying to find a berth
Were there is not a great motion.
Because he has to park his ship
And do a lot of planning
For the passengers are going to make a trip
On the Island of Fanning
There has come another thing to Sint his ears
You planned to do great things for the people over there.
Now Sint is in tears
And is grateful how you care.
Ohhh no, There was to much swell,
Nobody could go ashore
For the people of Fanning it is not well
And the passengers miss the island they adore.
Signed,
Sinterklaas
December 5, 2012 at 11:06 pm
Win some, lose some. Besides, I don’t think most people pack rain boots or ‘water shoes’ to use on a tender dock….. ;-i)
December 5, 2012 at 11:16 pm
I was the Meet and Greet chairperson for the Cruise Critic group that started a donation drive and we were (and are) so grateful that the ship’s Captain and staff were so gracious about pooling our efforts with their own plans to offer school supplies and such to the communities on Fanning Island (originally, we were offering to assist Christmas Island communities). We knew from the beginning that our being able to actually visit either of these islands might not be possible. The Captain’s decision to cancel this stop was clearly the right one; all of us on deck, watching the trial run of a tender, could see how difficult this tender ride in would have been. We’re disappointed for the people of Fanning Island but this stop simply wasn’t meant to be.
This is a cruise where you can’t help but realize how mighty is the power of the ocean and the wind, and I’m sure others on board would join me in gratitude that the concern for our safety is the uppermost consideration. (And yes, this is a wonderful cruise! We’re thoroughly enjoying the “little extras” the Captain mentioned earlier that have been arranged for us.)
December 6, 2012 at 2:41 am
I just learned about your blog. My parents are on your ship with you. I will be following your posts for the rest of the cruise! Thank you
December 6, 2012 at 10:11 am
A big thanks for collecting supplies and getting the word out to other passengers should go to Sue, another Cruise Critic LOVER.
Of course there are so many others. We all share in the disapointment of the day, and know the captain and ship really tried but safety was the key decision. Everyones efforts will not be in vain.
Again, such is the life on Fanning Island.
December 6, 2012 at 2:11 pm
In April this year I was on the P&O vessel ARCADIA and we had to call off the visit St Helena Island for the same reasons but boy oh boy did some passengers complain. I am greatful that the safety of ship, passengers and crew is always the first consideration of the Master. As compensation we did a circumnavigation of the island.
December 6, 2012 at 3:22 pm
Our daughter and son-in-law, Pat and John Stanley, are with you on this Statendam voyage. Though I miss them, your blog makes me feel I am almost with them. Thanks so much, Captain Albert, for helping me feel like I am in touch.
December 8, 2012 at 3:33 pm
Geweldig leuk Sinterklaasgedicht.
December 15, 2012 at 12:51 am
Amazing; now you’re even into rhyming poems, Captain !