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Ocean Liner History and Stories from the Sea, Past and Present. With an In Depth focus on Holland America Line

26 March 2013; Puerto Vallarta, Mexico.

By 05.00 we sailed into the Bahia de Banderas at which end Puerto Vallarta is located. We were leading the invasion as behind us was the Sapphire Princess with an ETA of 08.15 at the pilot station. Followed by the Zaandam going for 09.00. hrs. We had scheduled ourselves for 07.00 which is just before sunrise and gives the best view for getting into the harbor. The Sapphire Princess had the worst time this morning as on her approach everybody on the bridge would have to glare into the rising sun. By the time the Zaandam arrived the Sun would be high enough for it not to be a problem any longer. With three ships the whole harbor was going to be full as there are three docks now. Berth 1, closest to the flea market; berth 2, closest to Wall Mart and berth three with the best parking area for the tour buses and access to the shopping Mall. (That one is not as popular with the crew as the prices are quite high; it is quite a posh place) We were assigned berth nbr 3 which required a 90o turn in the middle of the harbor so we could dock sb alongside. By 07.30 we were happily alongside and the guests streamed ashore.

I have been coming to Puerto Vallarta since winter 1982 and a lot has changed in those years. At that time they were just building the first dock and with the old Statendam we had to anchor outside and tender into the port. Reason that we were going there? People had heard about the movie, The night of the Iguana and Liz Taylor and Richard Burton vacationed there. By the time the new Noordam and Nieuw Amsterdam came into service in 1983 & 1984 we could dock there, or we anchored “style mediteranee” inside with stern ropes ashore and two bow anchors down and then tendered a distance of 300 feet to the shore.

web dock 3 old

web dock 3 new

Left: as was in 1984                                           Right: As is in 2013

Then came the boom of the cruise industry and Puerto Vallarta started to expand by adding first berth nbr 2 and then later berth3 & the navy dock next to it. At the same time High Rises appeared everywhere and to the West an enormous Marina was developed; in a swamp area where until then only the poorest fishermen had lived.  To top it off, Wall-mart, Sams Club and the Shopping Mall (which is called Liverpool for some unknown –marketing-reason) appeared to top it all off. Tourist facilities grew with it and the port went from one small Kon-Tiki booze cruise raft, to two big Pirate ships, large enough to have formed a genuine threat to the Spanish Main if they had been floating around 300 years earlier.

In the beginning it was great to walk ashore for a drink or a bite to eat, or just to trundle through the old part of town. Even buying souvenirs was good, as the prices were low and the quality high. The latter has changed dramatically. Now the Mexican flavor of the area has really disappeared (we now have MacDonald’s and KFC which are full every day with tourists) but as it has become bigger, Wall-Mart and Home Depot have arrived which are life lines for the ships. We always run out of something and the official procuring process can easily take a month and might be dearer. Thus each call, there are shopping expeditions mounted by the various departments on board. This time Home Depot offered the right time for three groups of officers, from three ships, stacking up on nails, tape and all the other small stuff, without which a ship falls apart. I was in dire need of a Dry Eraser Board for my bridge training classes and a 3rd officer was dispatched to obtain it. Even with the Cab fare, it still came cheaper than ordering it via the regular channels. To be even more economical, the crew sees good sense in having the captain pay for the Cab fare for the 3rd officer and then 3 others hitch a free ride.

By 14.00 hrs. it was time to pull out again and head for our next and final port of call, Cabo San Lucas. Again the weather looks very good; I hope that the guests of this cruise realize how lucky they are. We will be at the anchorage at 06.30 to have the whole tender operation in full swing by 07.00. Tonight we have an hour back as the Californian Peninsula is on a different time zone than the Mexican Main Land.   

web sailing club

A thing I had never seen before, the local sailing school setting up shop in the middle of the harbour. They brought buoys, the little sailing boats and a commodore boat and happily started training. At least they were assured of a large audience. Just before we sailed they retrieved the buoys and packed it all up again.

4 Comments

  1. I remember a few years ago you made a Home Depot run yourself, and at the time I was absolutely floored about the very idea of casually sailing up in a huge ship and setting off with a shopping list for “little stuff”, getting back aboard and happily sailing off again ! It makes a lot of sense, but OH IS IT FUNNY !! 😀

  2. Back in very chilly Netherlands, feeling homesick to warm Puerto Vallarta. Indeed Vallarta has changed over the years, but still has plenty of nice restaurants and shops with low prices. Ask the locals or those that come there each winter.
    That Mall however is called Galeria Mall with inside the main ancor shop called Liverpool. (Liverpool shops can be found in some other Mexican cities too.)
    Many crewmember love the Wifi at Starbucks in that mall as we have often seen.
    It is a pity Statendam docks in Vallarta just for a few years, so people hardly have time to visit some more interesting places then Walmart, Sams etc. Zaandam passengersin are better off with the overnight stay.
    We hope to see Statendam again in port next winter. Love your reports.

  3. Yes, there is more to do in PV than Walmart and other shopping Last year we went to the Dolphin Training Center to be “dolphin trainers for a day” – loved it, learned a lot!

  4. Of course it should have been docked for a few hours (not years…)

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