The morning started gloriously with just a gentle breeze and sunny skies. The low clouds over the Fairweather mountain range did indicate that something was afoot and by the time we entered the Yakutat Bay, it started to drizzle. We picked up the pilot right on time and he brought two rangers and Ed & Ted, the two Indian interpreters, with him. One of the Rangers had gotten sea sick as the pilot boat operator decided to go fishing while waiting for the Veendam. He stopped the boat in the middle of the bay where there was still an Ocean swell running and the wallowing of the boat in the waves was not enjoyed by our lady ranger. However, when on board, she perked up quickly.

We put the pedal to the metal going up the bay, but we only made 10 miles in the direction of the glacier, with another 10 to go, before we came across the first band of ice. In the middle of Yakutat bay is a ring of shallows, a sort of threshold which marks the beginning of the upper bay. It is still 100 feet deep but on each side it is 300 feet or more so it forms a sort of rim or threshold. This affects the currents in the bay and as a result the ice, that makes it to the lower bay, will linger in this area. This time it was not just a bit of sludge and rubble but big pieces and in a very wide band. So we had to slow down and pick our way through it.

Once through we could do 15 knots again but not for a long time, as at the corner of Cape Latouche the next band of ice showed already. Luckily at the East side of the bay the pieces where mainly big and reasonably apart and so we could move through it with slow speed. Henke Island (see blog of two days ago) was acting as a current blocker again and by staying close to the West side we managed to get right in front of the glacier. I just took a very long time to get there. By the time that I was approaching the glacier I should have been on the way out again to stay on schedule. However we sat for 20 minutes right in front of the glacier and saw some big pieces coming down. At least it was worthwhile the effort. Although we did not get closer than last time, we now could sit more in the middle which gave a better view of the Russell Fjord entrance.

By 5 pm. I had to leave as I had to work my way down again through the ice. That turned out more difficult than before. The ice flows had moved in the mean time, so the way we used coming in was partly blocked and that meant slower speed for traveling and now on top of this, the fog came down. As it had been a glorious morning in the Yakutat now with the evening falling, the air mixed with the warmer rocks and then with the cold ice and created what we call Artic Sea Smoke. That made me go even slower, as the ice was harder to see with this grey haze hanging over the bay.

When we finally made it to the pilot station to say goodbye to Ed & Ted and the rangers, I was running nearly two hours later. So pedal to the metal to make up time. It had been a drizzly day, interspersed with periods of rain but the scenery did not look the worse for it. I hope that the guests appreciate what Mother Nature showed today. Due to being late, it meant that I had to cancel the captain’s welcome champagne toast but I can always do a quick intro tomorrow night.
For me, as always, I remain fascinated with the Yakutat. It is never the same. Compared to Hubbard, the glaciers in Glacier Bay are “drive in” glaciers. You can always get there, as the calving is less, but then Glacier Bay has other attractions that make it worthwhile to visit. Hubbard is as “raw” as a glacier can be but the amount of ice that it produces can make life rather difficult.

When back in the open the ship started to pitch as the wind and waves suddenly picked up. A disturbance located a 100 miles south of Sitka suddenly decided (without approval of the weather people) to start moving North. With the pitching and a strong wind, full on the bow, the speed is going down, so we have to see what this does for our arrival time.