Captain Albert Schoonderbeek
The distance between Naples and Elba is just too long to have an early morning arrival and so we were scheduled to be there at 10 am. That is a decent time anyway. Time for a leisurely breakfast on board, followed by a nice stroll into town. Having the best of both worlds. It was indeed a beautiful day and when we approached the island from the West, the sun beamed its rays over the green hills of Elba. We approached from the West as the entrance from the East side is a bit tight. Although there is enough water, it has several death angles (e.g. you cannot see around the corner) and if suddenly a fisherman comes in the way there would be nowhere to go but to put on the breaks very hard. Engineers do not like that very much so I prefer to go through wide open waters if the ship has a high average speed to maintain.
By 0850 we were at the pilot station and a very happy pilot came on board. We were his only job for the day and so he was bringing some money home that day. We were directed to the middle of the anchorage just in view of the harbour. There was a pier available but it was just too short for the Prinsendam to fit at. Next time when we come back it should be ok as they going to extend this pier during the coming winter. However as mentioned yesterday, the tender run into the port is very scenic and gives a nice overview of this most charming Italian town.
The old port and the ferry port to the left. The dock in the top left corner will be extended to take ships the size of the Prinsendam by 2010.
For a professional this port has something strange. Namely the way ships pass each other when going in and out. It is standard according to the Rules of the Road that you pass each other port to port where possible. Always keep to the right hand side. However here in Portoferraio it is the other way around. You keep starboard to starboard. This has to do with the starboard turn into the port area. A ferry, and there is a constant coming and going of them all day, has to make a wide turn to starboard into the harbour to dock. So the incoming ferry likes to stay as much in the middle of the bay for this turn. For the outgoing ferry it does not matter, so that one can hug the coast. Thus they will pass starboard to starboard.
Portoferraio is the home base of a ferry company called Moby Lines. They are very well known for their exuberant art work on the outside hull. Whales, cartoon figures, anything goes to attract attention and to make things lively. Although the ferries are nowadays not very beautiful ships and although this art work is not very tasteful either, it is surely something interesting to look at.
It is a bit hard on the eyes on an early morning but it sure attracts attention.
During much of the day we were the focal point of interest for the yachtsmen and women in the port. We were basically the biggest yacht in the port that day. The navigators on duty had a great time keeping a close eye on, especially the German yacht ladies, who were not shy in showing off how beautiful they were. Anchor watches do not always have to be boring.
Elba is a nice sheltered island located just to the east of Corse and about half way between Naples and Monte Carlo and thus a logical stop for us. Tomorrow we are in Monte Carlo and as they are preparing for the Grand Prix, we have been banned from Monte Carlo harbour. Instead we are going to Fontveille which is a little harbour just at the other side of the Oceanographic museum. I like the place as there are a lot of things in close proximity. The only problem is that it has a very small tender pier and we will have to share it with the Azamara Journey.
However it promises to be another beautiful day tomorrow. So things are looking good for a nice ending to this cruise that started on April 30th.
To access Captain Albert’s historical writings on Holland America Line as well as photos and additional information about Prinsendam and his sailing schedule, click here.
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