Since we left Italy for this Trans-Atlantic cruise all eyes have been on the North Atlantic weather. Although the hurricane season is tapering off, it is by no means over and if one of those big boys starts coming over, even reduced to a tropical depression, it could affect us. We have to go to Ft. Lauderdale and that means once we are south of Bermuda we could be in the track of one of them. But even during our time on the mid North Atlantic while we are well south of any storm track, the swell produced by the strong winds can easily roll down our way and cause a bumpy ride. Thus the weather reports which we receive nearly constantly, as our ships are connected to a simulation program through which a weather bureau continuously provides updates, are intensely scrutinized. We even have two of those programs that the company subscribes to, just to make sure that we can interpret the opinions and projections of two independent groups of meteorologists.

If there is going to be bad weather then we might have to face it, as very simply, we  have to go to Florida. But if we can avoid it to a certain extent then we will certainly do so. And that means the captain has to make a major decision. Follow the shortest route which will save him time and or fuel but it will bring the ship closer to the bad weather areas, or take the longer route and sail more south, but have to cover more miles. This is all caused by the fact that the earth is a globe (there are those who disagree see: https://www.tfes.org/) which results in a straight line on a globe, when putting it on a flat piece of paper (a sea chart), being shorter than when a straight line drawn on a flat piece of paper and then projected on a globe.

Each stretch of the voyage is reviewed and approved by the Captain. Then one of the officers will conduct the departure briefing before the ship sails. This is 3rd officer Max, one of several  7 feet tall navigations officers we have in the company, conducting the pre departure briefing in Cadiz for the whole team.

In nautical speak, such a “globe line” is called a Great Circle Line and a straight line on a chart is called a Rhumb Line. Over our 8 day crossing it makes a difference of about 42 Nautical Miles about 2.5 hours of sailing. This is a lot for a short cruise between to two ports, but not that much on 8 day crossing. Going on Rhumb Line looks on the chart as if we are sailing directly for the Bahamas and by doing that we stay about a 100 miles more to the south than otherwise would be the case. We are also staying about a 100 miles south of the average storm track.  And that is the big plus point. And that is what the captain decided upon, the least wobbly route we can sail on, based on the current predictions which are fairly reliable for about 5 days in advance.  The Great Circle Line would have taken us north of the Azores, and very close to Bermuda, where they know everything about hurricanes and other bad weather.

Welcome to the Dinngroom on Halloween night. Note the guy with the mask behind the tombstone. The first devil I have seen wearing a name tag.  Maybe something for the “Living Dead” to take over.

Inside the ship everything is about Halloween today, I do not know what the craze is about, as it really an American tradition but the crew is getting into it as well. All Nationalities. Maybe it is the chance to deviate from the uniform rules or to just make a mess of the working area, I do not know. But all sorts of things are going on, culminating in a long and big party this evening. How wild the guests will be I do not know but the crew will have a party on the top deck, well away from all the guests so they can make plenty of noise and dance to their hearts content. Some guests got into the spirit of the whole happening as well: I saw some somebody coming by in a wheelchair decorated (better said rebuilt) as a tombstone. ….why do I always forget my camera………… as it was a real good one.

We have a 50 feet long serving counter in the hot section of the galley and here at 18.20 hrs. it is one long line of stewards coming in to pick up their orders. The Training And Development team is in the background watching it all with a certain disbelief. 

I took the class this evening to the Main Galley to see Controlled Mayhem executed at a very high level of professionalism. Around 18.15 hrs. first sitting plus the start of As You Wish Dining have all advanced to their main course and then in 30 minutes the Executive Chef and his team has to churn out about 500 main courses, that is 17 servings of a hot dish per minute.  All perfectly presented and all arriving hot at the table. It is something you have to have seen once to believe and none of my previous students will now dream of calling the kitchen around that time for something trivial.

The weather is supposed to hold for at least two more days, thus we will have overcast skies little wind and a low swell running from various directions which lets the ship move just a little.

This is a wonderful port as long as the wind does not blow. Because it is on the coast of the North Atlantic Ocean and because the area is flat; there are no mountains ranges to protect it. The churches are the highest buildings in the area, and the same as at home, they seem to attract wind. So both the westerly and easterly winds blow freely over the whole port. If that is the case, then getting the ship into port and parked where it has to go can be quite challenging and not the most favorite pastime of the captain. Today there was not such worry. The wind was about 15 to 20 knots but from the south east and that meant the moment you are in the port, behind the breakwater you are sheltered for at least 50% and you can dock the ship without much of a headache.

Cadiz Harbor as per electronic chart. A curved faiway leads into the port located behind Cadiz town which sits on a peninsula.

Cadiz is located at the end of an estuary and the port is sitting in the inside of a curve of land upon which also the town of Cadiz has been built. This gives a sheltered port from the ocean swell but on occasion a sailor still has to cope with Ocean Storms or strong winds coming from the South East overland. We had a beautiful day with no wind and a lot of sunshine, which meant that even on arrival and departure we did not have to wear coats while standing at stations.  Standing stations for officers mean: leading the sailor teams at the bow and the stern when giving out the ropes to dock the ship or when taking the ropes in again.

This is the 3^rd port where the school class has been either forward or aft to observe and participate in the art of connecting the ship to the port or going the other way again.  There is a whole science behind mooring a ship and although it is basically the same for any ship in any company, the procedure of how it is done varies greatly from one company to another. Especially the way the orders are received by the officer, relayed to Bo ‘sun and the sailors and then confirmed with the Bridge.  To get the ropes ashore, we are using a messenger line which in HAL speak is called a Heaving Line because the way it is thrown or heaved ashore.

This line is caught by the linesmen ashore and then they start pulling at this thin line to get the larger mooring rope ashore. Depending on the expected weather (read wind) it is decided before arrival how many headlines and spring lines (the lines running aft from the bow and forward from the stern station) will be used. Our winches are equipped with mooring drums and so we can have 4 +2: four headlines and two spring lines, on those drums and for normal weather that is sufficient according to the shipyards calculation. If more wind is expected you can give out more ropes, we call those “extra’s”, to provide extra docking security. We can then go to 6+2, or 5+3, or 7+2, or to whatever the captain decides and is comfortable with. I once docked 11+ 7 when a hurricane was expected.

The more bollards you have on the dock, the more evenly you can spread the ropes. The longer the ropes, the better the holding power. I was very happy with this setup.

When the process starts we always give out a spring line first, both forward and aft. On a cruise ship the focus is always on the gangway and the spring lines are needed to bring the ship exactly in the best position for the landing of the gangway and to keep it there. Once those lines are taut and the ships position is correct, then the headlines can go ashore and once on the shore side bollards they can be winched tight as well. Eventually the final configuration is then achieved. Biggest challenge is the communication. The stations fore and aft letting the bridge know the status of the paying out and the coming taut of the ropes,  and the bridge side letting the mooring stations know what is needed, if there are changes and to also take into account the remarks and concerns of the mooring stations if the original plan is not achievable. The latter is often the case, as the ship does quite often comes to a standstill at not the planned location because there is a shore side bollard in front of the gangway or in front of the provision area or an expected shore side bollard is simply not there.

Today in Cadiz it went exactly according to plan. Apart from a Silversea cruise ship, which was at another dock, we were by ourselves and could park wherever we wanted within the limitations set by the harbor master. And thus we had the ropes paid out over several bollards (that is called a nice spread) and the ship was safely moored for the day.

It was a beautiful day and a great conclusion of our first part of the cruise. At 18.00 we sailed for open sea and we started our crossing across the North Atlantic. The captain has chosen the southerly route to get the best weather possible and the first three days look indeed very good with little winds, sunny weather and only a gentle ocean swell to contend with. How we decide on that sort of thing, more about that tomorrow.

As I was somehow expecting, there were more cruise ships in than listed on the port website. The fact that we had to make do with the inside of the outer breakwater and were not at the Passenger terminal indicated that something was afoot. And indeed, apart from Mein Schiff 5, we also had the Horizon in from Pullmantur and the Thomson Celebration from TUI cruises in port. The latter was a meeting of “sweet memories” as she is the old Noordam from Holland America Line and I was her captain from 2000 to 2002. I also was part of the team who supervised her construction in 1983- 1984 in France. She was laid up in the far corner of the outer Breakwater as she was planning for a dry dock and had no passengers on board. Apart from being white instead of being blue, she had not changed at all from her Holland America Line days. I did not get the chance to visit her as at the moment the school class takes up all the time. I am trying to cram the work for five port calls into three as on this cruise we are only calling at three ports before we start the crossing. And this is the second port already. But there will be a next time for a nose around.

The old ms Noordam (III) basking in the autumn sun in Malaga. The crane near the bow was in use to lift materials for the dry dock on board.

The ms Westerdam docked at the inner berth of the outer breakwater and was happily docked by 07.30. It turned out to be a beautiful day in Malaga with clear blue skies and hardly any wind, while it was not too warm. Did it matter that we were not docked at the passenger terminal? No, I think it worked out to our advantage. The passenger terminals (there are two of them) are very nice and have some nice shops but it is a very long walk from the ship through an elevated corridor extended from to the Jet way which connects to the ship.  From our berth you have to take a shuttle bus to the gate of terminal one but at least when you come off the ship you do not have to walk that long way. At the main gate you either have to take a taxi or purchase a shuttle ticket to down town, a 4 euro shuttle organized by the port authorities as the cruise docks are about a 20 minute walk from the down town area. Today it was a beautiful walk to make but the shuttle was there as if a plan B was preferred.

We had today a gathering of ALL the crew in the show lounge to attend a short seminar about cockroaches. Or better said about not to have them. We can prize ourselves lucky that we do not have them on board but it is a hard battle to achieve that goal and keep that goal. They can come on board with the stores and provisions, they can come on board with luggage, they (at least the males) can fly on board and as they are always busy to produce future generations, a ship can soon be infested if you are not alert. So we want all 900 crew to be alert and report if a creeping crawly is seen. Thus we have an outside contractor & specialist who travels around the fleet to train all of us in general and those in culinary and housekeeping in particular.

I think we had about 90% of the crew in the show lounge, the remainder at work to keep the ship in operation and the guests happy.

But because we can see insects everywhere while walking around, it is important to recognize the difference between a friendly beetle and a not so friendly piece of vermin. And thus we go for our yearly refresher, so all of us can recognize something we do not want on board. We have on board a very proactive system in place which monitors all the spaces in the ship for any sign of infestation. This is done by Bait Traps and they are regularly inspected by our Pest Coordinator; a petty officer from the Housekeeping department. If anything is found in a trap, then it is analyzed to see what it is (and it can be anything) and if it is something we do not like then this gentleman goes to war. He has a whole range of non-poisonous (at least not for us) chemicals and cleaning materials at his disposal to ensure that Papa and Mama cockroach are not going to show the world how many babies they can make. I can faithfully declare I have not seen a cockroach on board since about 1990.

We sailed on time and after going astern out of the port we swung around and set course for the Straits of Gibraltar. We will pass through here at around 22.00 hrs. and then turn to the North to be at the Cadiz pilot station at 0630 tomorrow morning. Tomorrow’s weather promises to be a carbon copy day of today with very little wind, which is amazing as Cadiz is exposed to the North Atlantic and it can be very windy here.

It is much easier to go astern out of the port and swing around in the wide open sea, than to do it in an enclosed space with all sorts of small craft in the way.

We were the only cruise ship scheduled for today and thus we could arrive when we wanted and we could dock at any location at the cruise terminal. Cartagena is a very large port. The navy has a large presence here with patrol boats, cruisers, submarines and destroyers and then there is the rest of the port with tankers, container ships, Gas carriers and various off shore installations. The cruise business is fairly new, Holland America went here for the first time in 2002 with Yours Truly in command of the old Noordam and if I had to believe the agent then we were the first large cruise ship calling there. I still do not know if he wanted to make me feel important or if it really was the case. Fact was the cruise terminal was the old ferry terminal with a small pier for a ferry boat.

That first call was quite successful apart from the fact that some of our guests found it hard to visit a REAL Spanish city which shut down from lunch between 13.00 hrs. and 15.00 hrs. But after my visit the port was more frequented and then the authorities built a new pier of 560 meters long so now it can have one big and one small cruise ship, or two medium sized ships. Today we were alone and the authorities allowed a salvage vessel / tugboat to dock at the end of the pier. It did not bother as us we could park the ship right in the middle with the gangway right opposite the now greatly enhanced old ferry building terminal.

Getting into the port is quite interesting, as you have to make an S turn between two breakwaters which nicely keeps the swell out of the port. The pilot boards about a mile south of the entrance and then the ship first makes a turn to port, shortly after a turn to starboard, then goes deep into the turning basin and then turns to port again to dock starboard side alongside. Starboard side is not necessary but it is handy to do, as it takes less time on departure to get out again, as you do not have to swing the ship completely around.

This is our way of Grand Prix racing; around the chicane, then a major turn and then putting the brakes on. This is a photo of when it was still a Ferry Terminal, the pier is now twice as long and acts at the same time as a natural barrier for the Marina.

And so we did this, this morning and the whole maneuver took roughly 70 minutes from pilot on board to gangway out and first guest walking ashore. You pick up the pilot with a speed of six knots and then continue with that speed when making the turns. When a ship turns it is losing a lot of speed. If a ship would commence an 180o turn with six knots, then by the time the ship is facing exactly the other way the speed is almost down to zero due to the friction it gets from the water in the turn. So if you want to stop a ship, then you can give astern on the engines but a few good course changes (or making large zig-zags), if you have the space also helps to reduce the speed very fast.  Thus this morning, the Staff Captain who did the maneuvering today only had to reduce the settings on the Azipods from slow ahead to dead slow ahead and the two course changes brought the speed down very quickly and by the time we were in the turning basin the speed was down to three knots, exactly what was wanted to commence the turn to the dock.

The Westerdam enjoying a sunny day in Cartagena. Photo from the lifeboat as the class had lifeboat maneuvering today.

And then you have to find the perfect spot to park yourself. Today we had one of those mystifying Spanish moments, none of the lights on the shore side worked. The port authority with great foresight had put a car with its lights on at the ideal location for the gangway and the ship approached accordingly. With still about a 150 meters to go, the driver of the car had enough of it and decided to go somewhere else, leaving us a little bit abandoned. Luckily the early part of sun rise started (nautical twilight) so we were able to see the gate in the Cruise terminal building and we could still line up at the perfect position. But if the driver had waited about 4 minutes it would have been a lot easier to use the head lights to judge how far we still had to go…………………

It turned out to be a very nice and sunny day with one big rain cloud hovering over the port for most of the day but it must have forgotten its purpose in life as not a single drop came down on the ship and the port. No doubt somewhere there must be a very unhappy Spanish farmer who had hoped for a bit of rain on its crops. We stayed until 18.00 hrs. and then set sail for Malaga, just around the corner. According to the schedule we are supposed to be in port with one more cruise ship, Mein Schiff 3, but you never know who else might pop up. It should be another warm day with no wind and temperatures of 74oF / or 23oC.

We sailed late from the port. But then we always sail late from Civitavecchia. Somehow it is impossible to get our guests back in time from the Rome Tour. Partly it is traffic on the motorway, partly it is that the guests come back to the coach at the very last minute, partly it is because the tour just runs late with all the traffic in Rome. So the bridge officers went into the same mental state of resignation as they do that every cruise ship bridge team has done before, just sit down and wait. And thus we waited and eventually the bus was back, and we were not that late, not so late as we had already mentally resigned ourselves to.

It was important to sail on time, or even earlier if possible as it is a high speed run to get to Cartagena on time. So once we were out of the harbor it was the pedal to the metal and a race with 19 knots on a South Westerly course down to the Iberian Peninsula. Our main concern is the weather as by late October it can be very spooky here. But we are doing well apart from a brisk westerly wind; the sun was shining today and is supposed to shine tomorrow.

When going to Cartagena from Italy you have two islands that are in the way. Corse and Sardinia. So you have to go above, under or in between. In between is Strait Bonifacio which is a very scenic stretch of sailing, however in our case we had to go through a 01.00 in the morning to keep the schedule. Nice thing is for the navigators at all the little ferry boats that dart in between the two islands are sleeping and there is no traffic. No pilot either, so the ship goes through with the Captain on the bridge and that is it.

Our Route from Italy to Spain. (Courtesy Her Majesty’s Geographic Office chart 301)

By noon time we had passed the Balearic Islands, coming quite close to Menorca with the cruise port of Mahon. A very nice port to visit but only suitable for ships of the ms Prinsendam size as it is very tight to make the one turn to get inside, followed by swinging around in the inside harbor. Cartagena has a much wider entrance and much larger port, hence we are going there. Most guests do not directly equate the Mediterranean Sea with bad weather. Postcards and photos always give sunny beaches and ripple free blue water but the opposite can be the case. Because it is surrounded by land on all sides (not counting the small hole called the Straits of Gibraltar) there can be land wind from all sides and low and high pressure regions on all sides. Strong sand filled winds coming from the Sahara, cold Etesian wind from the north in the Greece area and Mistral winds coming from the North in the French area. During the summer and winter months when the high and low pressure areas around the Med are quite stable, the storms are fairly predictable but in spring and autumn this is less the case.  And that is of course exactly the period that the cruise ships move in or out of the Med. So cruise ship captains are extra alert when they are transiting this area to ensure that the ship is ready in case the winds suddenly pick up. Today we had not much of a bother. Around noon time it peaked up to 25 knots and then it died down again gradually.

We will keep that pattern as during the night this westerly wind will breeze up again, going up to 25 or 30knots and then remain that way. But Cartagena is sheltered at three sides by mountains so when we go into port then it should be nearly wind still. Weather expected 64oC / 18oC with partly cloudy skies. Should be a very nice day for which is still a very Spanish port.

In all the cruise brochures it gives the port call as Rome but this is not really the case. Rome is landlocked and never had a harbor. In roman times they had a port called Ostia and now in modern times it is Civitavecchia. The place has been around for a long time as the old harbor is protected by a Fortress designed by Michelangelo back in the 1500’s.

Fort Michelangelo. To the right we can just see one of the cruise terminals of the port.

Rome itself, at least the airport, is 90 kilometers away about an 80 minutes’ drive. How long it would take to get to downtown Rome would be any bodies guess as it would depend on the traffic at the time of the day and the day of the week. Saturdays and Sunday tend to be marginally less busy as there is hardly any lorry traffic then. Those 90 kilometers take 80 minutes although I have seen Mini Bus drivers do it a lot faster. Especially if they are driving crew who seem to be expendable in the mind of the drivers. They have a handy help when they are attempting to break the record of the fastest transfer to the ship and that is by keeping the white line in the middle of the road, exactly between the two front wheels. If from the opposing side somebody is doing the same thing, then that problem is solved by a last minute jerk to the right and then immediately getting back onto the white line again. The system does work……….. I am still alive and so are my new officers who arrived on board today .

Captain Mark Rowden.

The good ship ms Westerdam under the able command of Captain Mark Rowden is starting a 14 day Trans-Atlantic Cruise today which will conclude in Fort Lauderdale on the 8^th. of November. We will visit three ports in Spain, Cartagena, Malaga and Cadiz and then have 7 glorious sea days. The weather for the coming days looks good; we just have to keep our fingers crossed for the crossing. But the ship will be taking the southerly route and that normally means that we avoid most of the bumps in the road. Wind is a lesser concern; everybody can hide behind the glass wind breakers when outside.

I had a school class, although the official title is Nautical Excellence Course, in April of this year going East with the Westerdam over the Atlantic and now we are doing the same thing again going west. Since then the ship has sailed in the Mediterranean it also received a face lift to update some of the Public Rooms, to install the Music Walk and receive lots and lots of carpet. I will share some photos in the coming days. The 6 new navigators will receive a mixture of theoretical and practical training to help to prepare them for their first real assignment as a licensed HAL officer. They can do it without this NEC period but it is always easier to climb a hill when you know the path and know why there is something coming at you when you turn the next corner.

That all started to day with them and the rest of the crew streaming on board with their luggage at 08.30. In the old days the crew at once disappeared into the bowels of the ship not to surface until a few days later when they were tuned in to the running of the ship. Not any longer; now we all have to go through Safety Indoctrination in which we are immersed into in two sessions. Today all the basic things we have to know before we are allowed to start working, tomorrow the rest and that is mainly what we are not allowed to do wrong. Which means watching a safety video, a video regarding proper conduct on board, filling out a whole pile of forms to comply with this and it all culminates with a visit to the Tailor shop. A good officer cannot start his/her life without a pair of safety shoes, a coverall and some khaki’s. The regular blue uniforms will come later, as the tailor is not in a hurry as long as the crew member does not know when and where he or she will be going.

All those things take a whole morning to accomplish. The next highlight was then to explain where to get food and how the Lido layout works. I am sure that is one item I do not have to repeat a second time to get the message across.

The afternoon was filled with explaining who is who in the Head office and the in-depth reasons about why we do the Guest Lifeboat drill the way we do it. Tomorrow we are making a start of how to dock the ship safely, and then we will progress into how to sink the ship and then how to set it on fire. At least in theory.

We will be sailing south of Sardinia tomorrow on the way to Cartagena and the weather looks very nice with temperatures in the area of 19oC or 68oF. Not bad for autumn.

Because the ms Westerdam is island hopping in Greece, it was not really possible to join her any earlier. Flying to Santorini or Mykonos is a challenge enough under normal circumstances but when the Etesian winds are blowing (and you never know when the blow) then the flights to the islands get easily cancelled. The Etesian winds are a wind that comes from the north, from the Hungarian/ Bulgarian area where on a regular basis a high pressure system forms which generates very strong wind, up to wind force 7 to 8 is not unusual. And that comes “blowing down a gale” straight over the Greek Islands.

The Castel Nuovo dominates the down town area and is the first thing you see when coming off the ship.

So the best option for me was to park myself for two days in Naples, get over my jet leg, prepare for the coming school class and see a bit of Naples at the same time. The flight took me from Miami via Charles de Gaulle (CDG) in Paris to Naples and the whole happening lasted well over 24 hours, mainly because a Naples connection is not a main route and thus the flight connections do no tend to have a good flow through.  8 hr. wait in CDG airport as a result.  This is a most peculiar airport as everything is focused on getting you out when you arrive. There is no signage or information to direct you to another terminal if you continue your flight into the European Interior.  So even for this experienced traveler it took a while to figure out how everything worked. The main failure is that there is no signage between the International bit and the domestic bit (which includes the whole of Europe) you just have  to follow the exit signs; when you get to immigration there is some tentative information about where the next terminal might be. Strange thing is that apart from immigration (understandable, you are entering Europe) you also have to go through another security check again. They do not seem to trust anybody who comes from anywhere, and this happens while you have not left the secure area yet, when you are in transit. The airport has been renewed completely recently but I cannot understand how the French with their creativity and culture can create something so stark and depressing.  Nearly everything is grey and dark with on occasion an explosion of Orange. (= toilets). Taking the bus into Paris for a few hours was not really an option as it was Sunday and there was a reduced service.  I know from experience that this makes it difficult to get back on time.

Another thing right across from the terminal but a bit hidden from view an old fashion style shopping mall.

Naples turned out to be better; the agent parked me in a Hotel about 500 yards from the cruise terminal and that is also downtown at the same time. The basic street plan of Naples is a sort of half round with the port as its center and if you are in it you only have to walk up the hill or sideways to see it all.

This is normal for Naples. And not even close to rush hour. Note the mopeds driving over the white line. I think they are convinced that this white line was especially drawn there for them.

Best way to get the feeling for a city, especially for something so chaotic as Naples, is to take a city tour. Welcome Big Red Bus. Easily to find; outside Castel Nuovo next to the Cruise Terminal. For 22 euro’s you are happily driven around Naples via two routes. Due to the small streets of Naples, buses and even bigger cars cannot go everywhere, so the hop on hop off route is split in two. One follows the coast line to the west and the other does part of the old city, via the main thoroughfares. My compliments to the Drivers. Taking a Coach around Naples is not for the faint hearted. It is called a hop on hop off but hardly anybody is hopping as it is better to do the whole route and then walk to where you want to go. Also in mid afternoon it is not certain at all that you can hop back on again as the Bus might be full and you are not allowed to stand in the bus until there is space. Not allowed to stand makes sense as the driver has to break often and most of the time very sudden, to avoid motor cycles, scooters and small cars whose owners all think they are training for the Grand Prix and traffic rules are not for them but for the rest of the world.  It makes crossing the road an interesting experience. If you wait you never get across so you observe the flow and if there is a small gap, you just walk. As far as I can see, Naples invented the traffic Jam, although it is a fast flowing one. Also a constantly honking traffic Jam where each hole is filled with scooters and motor bikes. Neapolitan’s are friendly and outgoing, until they step on or in something motorized, then “an aggressive full speed ahead” seems to be the only goal in life.

Something I have found in more countries is that they built a copy of the St. Peters of Rome Church. This one is on the top of the hill at San Gennaro catacombs  and is a complete miniature version of the big one in Rome. There is one in Holland as well. I believe also one in England somewhere.

Do I like Naples ? Let’s say I found it fascinating. It is an old city; choc-a-bloc of old stuff going back to the Romans and before, but it is also full of noise and pollution. Neapolitan’s are very friendly people but do think that the whole surrounding world has to be an audience to their conversations, either face to face or via the phone; so do not expect to sit in a restaurant or small coffee shop for a bit of piece and quiet. For that you have to go further out of the center where there is a more space. In the old town it is just wall to wall noise and you have to be constantly on the lookout for all those mopeds coming by.

The whole of the center of Naples is one big labyrinth of small streets where the regular people live. That is why most traffic consists of mopeds, scooters and very small cars.

What is nice to do, if you have the guts for it, is to walk just one street up from the main street. The whole of Naples is just one big apartment building and behind the main thoroughfares you have the very small streets with all the small shops on the ground floor and the apartments above (still going 5 or 6 floors high) and where the regular people live. Those shops are very small but there is no other option as everything is built on top of each other so there is no room to build a bigger shop or expand upwards. Square cobble stones and big basalt blocks make up the pavement, so you need good shoes but it makes for a fascinating walk.  Is Naples dangerous? Yes if you walk around with your Rolex, expensive Camera, jewelry or a Gucci bag, then you invite a “fly by / rip off of your bag by a scooter but if you dress normal and behave normally, then there is no problem in all the main areas of the City.

This is a wide street as a bus fits through. This is typical for most of downtown Naples, apartments go six or seven high. I wonder if they all have lifts.

Whichever town or place I visit, I try to make it a point to find Real Estate agents. House prices combined with interior photos of normal houses and apartments give good idea about what the whole area is about and how people live. As downtown Naples is all built up, the only way to recognize a nice building from not such a nice one is the upkeep on the outside, as most of the architecture is similar even if it varies in style from Romantic, to Regency to Neo-Classical. So looking for good paint work and no TV wires on the outside is the first step and then if the pavement in front of the building is clean. Naples is a bit of a dirty town, so if it looks less dirty around the entrance than the rest of the street, you know that the price is going up and the inside will look good. In downtown, the price is roughly a 100,000 euro’s per room and depending on the quality it hovers for a 4 to 5 bedroom in the region of 500.000 to 700.000 euro’s. More bathrooms and a nice view and it tops the 1 million; if you want good inside parking, 1.2 million. Noise and chaos come free of charge and as there is a church within 300 yards anywhere it comes included with a free wake up service at 07.30 every morning.

Tomorrow I will board the Westerdam at the cruise terminal located just around the corner. I had a look this morning to see how to get there, if there would be no agent to pick me up. Naples is building a new Metro /Underground Line and the whole area in front of the Statione Marittima is one big building site. Everybody has to walk around this building site so I thought I had better do to a bit of Voyage Planning before I roll my suitcase out of the door. In 2007 or so, I had a private tour of the terminal which was built in the 1930’s when Mussolini forced the individual shipping companies to merge into one national company. 10 years ago, you could still see the 1^st,2^nd and 3^rd class waiting rooms where people assembled before they boarded the ship. The place looked a little bit dilapidated then when I looked in the various rooms. That has all changed now and the large luggage and holding areas have been converted into meeting and conference rooms. Pity about the historic stuff but at least the building can now also be used outside the Tourist season. At the moment there are everyday at least 3 or 4 cruise ships in but that will get less in November. Yesterday we had MSC, Pullmantur, Costa and Albatross and today there was an Apartment of the Seas, and a Viking ship. If the schedule is right, then the Westerdam should be all by herself tomorrow.

The Westerdam is about to end her last Mediterranean cruise and will stop at Civitavecchia for Rome as the turn over port. Here my 7 eager and new Navigation Officers will board and then we will commence our Trans-Atlantic crossing to Fort Lauderdale. 3 ports and then 8 glorious days at sea.

I will leave you with a Napolitan puzzle: what are they trying to achieve here at the Bus stop:

A whole confusing collection of traffic signs.                                                                                                                                                                   1  A speed sign to drive maximum 20 kilometers. 
2.Then lorries are not allowed and the road gets smaller.
3. The 3^rd sign indicates, nothing is allowed.             
4. Warning sign of traffic coming both ways and under it, no parking at any time.
Our Bus stopped here for a photo shot of Vesuvius and downtown, and nobody took any notice of any of the signs, and yes behind the bus was a lorry parked with the driver having lunch. Maybe in Naples stopping for lunch at a sidewalk café is not considered parking.

Late yesterday afternoon we sailed through the Windward Passage and the Trade wind fell away. The ridge of islands here, Cuba, Hispaniola and Puerto Rico further to the East all have mountain ranges and they ensure that there is a significant difference in wind; rain and other meteorological phenomenon between the areas on either side of the Windward Passage. Once completely clear, the wind has the tendency to return to the East or South East, similar to the Trade Winds but it is not constant. Regular depressions coming in from the North Atlantic, especially in the winter months can disturb this pattern with great frequency.

And we were not disappointed, a frontal ridge, a small depression was lying off the Windward area and while on the south side in the passage we had no wind at all, and once out it turned to the North East. By the next morning while sailing North of Cuba the frontal ridge came over and dumped a fair amount of rain water on the ship. Not appreciated by the guests but it made our Bo ‘sun very happy as it washed all the salt off the ship which had accumulated yesterday due to the strong trade winds. Once we were through the showers, the winds changed to the North West and later on veered back to the North East. And that is what we are supposed to keep all the way to Fort Lauderdale.

The Windward Passage, Gateway to the Caribbean.

There is a lot of traffic going through the Windward Passage and together with the Mona Passage further to the East it is the best connection to get in and out of the Caribbean so we see a lot of Container ships and Tankers coming and going from the Panama Canal. To regulate all these ships that are converging from six sides into the one passage there is a Vessel Traffic Separation scheme in effect, to keep those going north separate from those going south. Once north of the passage and heading up to Florida the same is repeated above Cuba in the Old Bahama Channel. For the Nieuw Amsterdam it adds about 20 miles to the journey as following the prescribed route means staying much more to the East and much more to the North of Cuba, than if we would sail a straight line. But it is now a lot safer than in the past as then it was a free for all and ships would do the strangest things; mostly to reduce the miles to make to the absolute minimum. So going through the passage we now hugged the Haitian side and once out, we hugged the Bahama side of the waters.

I used the day to wrap up my business here on board as tomorrow I will transfer to the Westerdam. This ship is about to end its European season and return to the USA for the winter. My regular readers might remember that I went to Europe with the ship in April to conduct a school class on board with new Navigators. Well we are going to do the same thing again, now sailing the other way. Holland America has found once again 7 eager navigators whose dream in life it is to join the company and we are not going to disappoint them. So I will fly from Miami to Paris and from there to Naples to join the Westerdam in that port, sail with her to Civitavecchia where the new officers will join for 14 days of immersion in the ways, routines and traditions of Holland America.  As there is a gap of three days, I will have time to prepare for the classes, get rid of my jet lag and explore the city as there seems to be a Hop on hop off Bus with three different routes.

On arrival in Ft. Lauderdale we will be together with the Harmony of the Seas and the Caribbean Princess who sailed ahead of us from Aruba two days ago. Then it is time for me to go to the airport. So tomorrow and the day after there will be no blog, but I hope to be able to share some experiences while visiting the city of Naples.

Even with going full out, it takes two days to sail from Aruba in the lower South West Caribbean to Fort Lauderdale. Of course we take the shortest route possible and that route takes us through the Windward Passage West of Haiti into the Old Bahama Passage North of Cuba. As long as there is no canal cutting through Cuba, we have to sail around it and that means either going West or East of this Island. For us the East side is the shorter route although if there are Hurricanes pending, then the ships have to sail around the West side of Cuba; but it means a late arrival in the home port. We want to arrive even earlier than normal to ensure that the Guests can disembark as per expected routine. We want to avoid any delays that might be caused by the full Crew Inspection which the CPB will conduct in Ft. Lauderdale.

Our route to Fort Lauderdale. Between 4 and 7 pm. we were in the Windward passage and then turned North West.

Every 90 days, every crew of every cruise ship has to attend such an inspection and that means that all crew goes ashore in groups to have their passports inspected and to get their I -95’s (crew landing permits) endorsed. With 900 crew that takes some time and the speed of the processing depends on how many officers the CBP can make available. Normally the ship ensures to be alongside at 07.00 hrs. which is the moment the longshoremen start working to take off the luggage. Now we want to be alongside by 06.00 hrs. so we have an hour to get the crew processed and thus we can ensure that the disembarkation of the guests is not affected. Most guests would like to have breakfast and that would be rather difficult if all cooks and stewards would be in the terminal reporting to the CBP. So we go pedal to the metal to makes this possible.

The day started full of rain showers as was predicted in the weather forecast but later in the morning the skies cleared but we had a sunny if windy day. Luckily there are enough locations on board to remain out of the wind and then decide if you want to soak up the sun, or stay in the shade. In my opinion it is a very nice way to end a cruise with two sea days, as it gives all the guests at least one full day to enjoy the ship without having to worry about packing and getting ready to go home. That can be left until tomorrow and for the fast packers until tomorrow evening.  Those who have the worry of how to pack the contents of three suitcases into two, due to all the shopping in the various ports, will have two days to come up for a solution to that challenge.

I had two main things on my mind today; conducting a fire drill with a full debriefing for the ship in the morning and secondly holding my Holland America History Lecture in the afternoon. The afternoon bit was the easiest and I was happy to keep a sold out show lounge attentive for 80 minutes with facts and stories about our fascinating company history. Fire drill takes much more time, as the challenge is always to create a drill with sufficient learning moments so that it is educational and will add something to the routine and skills of the crew involved. So today I put the Bo ‘sun store on fire which is a large area in the bow of the ship and its main challenge is to search for the source of the fire and save any casualties if found.

Within 8 minutes from out of bed, in full gear and ready to enter the Hot zone looking for the fire. I was quite happy with that time span.

The Bo ‘sun store is U shaped and by the time I had pumped it full of white stage smoke, visibility was below 2 feet. For teams the only way to find their way out again is to follow their hose and the same goes if there is a relieve team going in. Grab the charged hose and follow it blindly to where the nozzle is. Then do a hand over with the team going out (not easy as everybody wears breathing apparatus) and take over the job at hand.  For a simple fire drill we have at least 40 crew involved; deck, engine and medical officers, petty officers who are in the fire teams and crew who make up the various support groups. If we have a major drill it goes up to 80 or a 100 crew involved. And all these crew have to be in position within 10 minutes of the alarm having been sounded and to be ready to start the attack. Crew rotates, go on leave and come back again and this means that training and exercising is a never ending story. When I get on board there is then the nice chance to have an “outsider” organize something totally un-expected to have everybody hone their skills to an even higher level.

Hurrah for the invention of smoke machines, it makes it so much more realistic.

At 18.00 hrs. we sailed through the Windward Passage and from now on we will head westwards above Cuba. The moment we came in the shelter of Haiti, the Trade wind disappeared and it is expected that we will have a nice and quiet day tomorrow while sailing through the Old Bahama Channel towards Florida.

We knew it was going to be a windy day and we were not disappointed. There was a very strong wind blowing and during our stay it reached gusts of between 35 and 40 knots. That is Gale Force, except there was no storm. It was just very windy, a sort of Turbo Trade Wind blowing. On top of that we did not have the most ideal dock. The two big boys, Adventure of the Seas and the Caribbean Princess where at the regular cruise terminal, which makes sense because then you direct the largest flow of visitors over the shortest distance to downtown; and the Zenith that had an overnight stay was in the side dock, which is too short for the Nieuw Amsterdam. The Freewinds, the cruise ship of the Scientology Church, was in the next side dock and thus we had to content ourselves with being at the old container terminal. Aruba has now a new container terminal, close to the airport and the old one is currently used for the cruise ship overflow. They have big plans to develop this dock as another large cruise ship dock but that has not happened yet. Thus the bollards and mooring arrangements are still laid out as for cargo ships. Not for apartment buildings that catch an awful lot of wind……. As we had today.

The Caribbean P on A, Adventure o/t S on B, Fairwinds on C, Zenith on D and Nieuw A. on E. This chartlet shows the new street car / tram line they have going now for a few years. When they finish the new terminal it will no doubt be extended. (Diagram courtesy Aruba.com / Mr. Allen Morrison)

At the other docks we have extra bollards, more inland which can take lines exactly perpendicular to the average direction of the wind but not here, so things were not ideal. Also we had bunkering today so for most of the day a large bunker barge/ship docked alongside us. The idea of blowing of the dock with a barrel of oil alongside you and then to be blown onto the reef on the other side of the harbor is something not to be contemplated so the Captain had ordered a tugboat on standby in case the wind would pick up even more. The harbor of Oranjestad, officially called Paarden Baai (Bay of Horses) is protected by a reef which runs along the whole length of the port. Great for breaking any strong swell coming in, not so great if you blow off the dock and otherwise could have drifted to sea safely.

Spaghetti Junction with the ropes of the Zenith and the Nieuw Amsterdam sharing bollards. We would have loved to have had some more bollards inland, there where the two people are standing or even beyond.

The name Paarden Baai dates from the Spanish and Dutch Colonial days when this corner of the island, the most sheltered from the ocean swells, was the landing point where horses were brought ashore for use on the islands. A practice long time gone but the name stayed. As far as I can figure out, the Zenith docked at the location where this original landing spot once was.  All the docks including the new container terminal and the airport are all at the south side of the island taking whatever shelter there is from the prevailing winds and from the leeside the island offers protection against the swell. Same at Curacao and same at Bonaire, the other two larger Dutch islands just to the east of Aruba.

The large empty space of the former cargo docks. Plans are in motion to extend the dock where now water is seen and then build another cruise terminal on this location,

Although Aruba is nominally still part of the Kingdom of the Netherlands its focus is much more towards the USA where the majority of the tourists are coming from and to Venezuela were the oil is coming from that was originally brought to Aruba, Bonaire and Curacao by The Royal Dutch Shell tankers from lake Maracaibo. The Shell tankers are long gone, the oil is still coming but the refineries are less prominent than they used to be and the main focus is now on tourism. And with over 11000 guests coming from the cruise ships they did not have much to complain about to day.

Because the refinery is so close by this is an ideal location to load fuel for the ship and the chief engineer’s fuel bill today went well over a $100,000. Still it was cheaper than the $433,000 the captain had to pay to get his ship through the Panama Canal. We had today a fairly long stay, departure was a 20.00 hrs. and once the last tired shopper was back on board we set sail for our last port of call, Ft. Lauderdale. We will have two days at sea and the first day is expected to be windy and rainy, with some dense showers coming over.