- Captain Albert's Website and Blog -

Ocean Liner History and Stories from the Sea, Past and Present. With an In Depth focus on Holland America Line

Category: excludeRecent (page 17 of 82)

12 March 2018; Castries, St. Lucia.

The nice of thing about Castries is that it has a very nice sheltered harbor from the predominant Easterly winds. So even if the Trade Winds reach their maximum velocity, Castries is normally a safe bet for a safe docking and a good day in port. As such it was this morning when we approached at 07.00 hrs. outside there was about 20 to 25 knots of wind but inside it hovered around 15 knots. No worries about not getting in.  As the wind was scheduled to reduce in velocity later in the day, the captain opted to dock nose in. That was a good idea anyway as the dock were we were going to, ends up in the rocks and that is not good for the propellers if you get to close.

Castries harbor. As you see it is a straight line all the way in. The small white triangle is the AIS from a small ship coming in. (AIS = Automatic Identification Signal)

Today we docked at the Elizabeth Pier, or berth 3 & 4 right with the nose in the middle of Castries. There are also two dedicated cruise berths, Seraphine 1 and 2, which are the normal docks for the cruise ships, but when there is no cargo ship in port they put one cruise ship in down town. Today we were the lucky one, while the Aida Vita went to the cruise terminal, Seraphine 1. The 3rd ship the Star Dream never showed up, unless it was a very futuristic looking private yacht in black and mocha colors that docked at the general cargo pier. But I could not read the name.

The leading lights towering over the warehouses. As you can see the beacons are not yet in line. The ship has just swung around and still has to line up for sailing out.

Sailing into Castries is fairly simple, it is a straight course until you pass the first cruise dock on the portside and then you adjust for your own way of approaching the dock. To make it easier to sail that straight course, there is a leading light system set up on the downtown dock and if you keep both lights or both day marks in line, then you are perfectly in the middle of the channel. The only thing we are concerned about here is the airport. It lies in a hidden corner behind a rock when coming in, and when going out. You can only see the landing strip once you start passing it. Why is it a concern, because we cannot see if a plane is arriving or departing. Can it cause a problem, yes, as time is flexible in St. Lucia. The pilot on the ship always confers with the control tower to find out if there is air traffic expected and most of the time the answer is correct. But not always. Either the Control tower does not care about the ships or the approach times given are not correct. Time is flexible, also in the air.

Overview of the port with the airport prominently visible. The rocks with the trees on it on either side are just high enough to obscure any plane approaching or leaving.

Most cruise ships captains eventually have the experience that an aircraft comes buzzing by, while the all clear was given with an ETA, well before or well passed our passing time. Most of the aircraft here are of smaller size as St. Lucia has a bigger airport to the South.  Is this a concern? If we could be sure that they would fly in at a good height, than it would not be.  But on occasion we have a sky-jock who wants to put their wheels down on the first inch of tarmac when he or she gets there and that means their fly path in the descent is at our bridge level. Although a steel ship will always win it from an aluminum tin can, the idea of a collision is not appealing. I had this experience once when a local 16 or 32 seater plane came in and went for the early touch down. It passed about 100 meters in front of our bow. I was outbound and then 100 meters is not much as you are in the process of speeding up from maneuvering speed to about 10 knots. I do not know how the pilot in the plane reacted when he saw 60,000 tons of momentum coming at him but I was not a happy camper. Explanation from the Control Tower was that this plane was supposed to come in 10 minutes later but arrived early. (Maybe the pilot found a short cut somewhere and wanted to be in before cocktail time)

The Pitons, as seen in 2014 from my own ship the Statendam. With volcanoes things do not change much in 4 years, so it all still looks the same.

We sailed at 15.00 hrs. which is on the early side but we also had sightseeing on the program. 15 miles to the south are the Pitons (= which means spike) at the south side of St. Lucia. These are over 700 meter high volcano cones. The outside of the volcano crater has eroded away, being lighter lava and the inside of being of much harder material has remained and is now a free standing pinnacle mountain. This is a UNSCO world heritage site due to its outstanding beauty. So we are going to have a look.

From there we put the pedal to the metal to get to St. Johns Antigua on time, where we are supposed to dock at 08.00 hrs. at one of the down town piers. It is going to be a full house if all the ships are showing up that are scheduled, with the Azure of P&O, the Adventure of the Seas of RCI and the Seabourn Odyssey, of our daughter company Seabourn. Everybody is coming in at the same time, so it will be an ocean liner parade.

10 March 2018; Charlotte Amalie, St Thomas, US Virgin Islands.

Today all was well in the world. The weather was good, the sun shone and the local pilot was so excited about our visit that he even came out earlier than scheduled. Later on we realized that it had most likely to do with the fact that the other ship, the Silver Wind, never showed up and our earlier arrival maybe gave him the day off. But whatever the reason was, we were docked by 07.45 and docked with the nose out as we swung on arrival. Thus when we leave tonight at 20.00 hrs. it is a matter of minutes before we are outside again. Ships which sail at 17.00 or 1800 hrs., normally dock sb. side alongside, nose in, and then swing in the harbor when there is still day light. Day light is important as the inner bay is full of anchored yachts and not all of them switch on their anchor lights after dark. They should but there is nobody to police it and yachtie’s are very concerned about conserving power.

St Thomas on a “normal” day with all the docks full and even a ship on the anchorage. Behind the island in the middle lies Crown Bay which can also take two big ships.

Thus we had Charlotte Amalie, the town and the Havensight Shopping Mall all to ourselves. Also St. Thomas suffered from the strong hurricanes of last year and the roof of one of the warehouses, the one right under the bridge, had not been repaired yet and we could see all the liquor still stacked inside. The packaging had faded and deteriorated in the torrential rains and followed by the beating sun but the bottles were still in good shape. I suppose it must still be caught up in insurance negotiations so repairs have not been affected, as the liquor shops should be wealthy enough to be able to absorb the cost. A roof is not so expensive and duty free liquor is dirt cheap. Although it looked like that the top shelves also had two pallets with Johnny Walker Black and Blue label and that might be more expensive. I wonder what they will do with the liquor? Sell it for a discount as “hurricane stained” or have it go down the drain. …………….. that would make Scotland cry!!!

All that booze exposed to the sun. If our bridge wing had just been a little bit longer than we could have just fished it out.

Charlotte Amalie is bit of a strange name for a US port and that has to do with the fact that it is not really a US port or island it all. It used to be Danish in times gone by and named after the wife of the King of Denmark in 1691. Before that it was known as Taphus, which was derived from the Dutch word Tappen or pouring beer. So even 300 years ago the island already made its money from alcohol. In 1917 it was bought by the USA but very little changed as the town remained a free port. It started to become a tourist attraction when Cuba closed in 1961 and American Tourists needed another main focus point for their vacations not too far from home.

Savor the view. All by ourselves at the Pier. All to ourselves the town, the shopping mall and the beaches.

I have mentioned liquor a few times but nowadays it is less important than in the 80’s and 90’s. Then the Holland America ships in port used to run a complete tender service to get all the liquor on board that was bought by the guests. Now the emphasis is more on jewelry and electronics. Holland America has been coming to St. Thomas since March 1928 when the good old Veendam nbr. II (Capt. Watze Krol, voyage 44B) made the maiden call during a 14 day West Indies cruise from New York. That is now exactly 90 years ago. A pity it is not a 100 years, as that would have been a real milestone.  ………… Maybe that is why we are in port all by ourselves; as a birthday present.

Tonight we will leave at 20.00 hrs. and that is not really an evening call. The company is not that interested in scheduling an evening call here as late at night the place is still not very safe, although it has improved greatly in the last few years. But sailing away after dark is very nice with all the houses against the hill lit up, Blue beards Castle clearly visible and then at the entrance the Morning Star Beach Hotel giving a nice final view of the port.

During the night we will slowly sail towards Gustavia on Saint Barthelemy which is part of France. Thus tomorrow we are in Euro country although they take dollars as well. We have to anchor here and run a tender service as the port is very small.  Last time I was there was with the Prinsendam, on arrival it turned out that Mr. Abramovich had parked his yacht on my anchor spot (his yacht had about the same length as the Prinsendam) and just stayed there. The harbor master was quite happy with that as the Prinsendam paid $ 15,000 for the port call and our Russian friend had already guaranteed $ 100,000. It was Boxing Day and he was having breakfast with the rest of the Jet Set. I was not going to pay that much for breakfast, even with 700 guests. So I sailed on to Antigua and made the shop owners happy there. We will see what happens tomorrow as I have no idea where our friend Bram is at the moment.

09 March 2018; At Sea, Day 2.

It always gives a captain  a wonderful feeling if the weather is following the weather forecast. It makes you look less of a fool than they guests might otherwise think that you might be. Although we do not mind to be wrong if we predict bad weather and the bad weather does not happen but an accurate prediction during the Voice from the Bridge followed by Mother Nature confirming it can make your day. And now we have the weather doing exactly that. We had the wind from the wrong side yesterday but it kept the clouds away and brought a sunny day and the prediction was that the wind would veer to the north and then to the east. This would happen because of a frontal system coming through that was being pushed away by the Trade Winds. Frontal systems bring rain and this morning between 0900 and 1100 hrs. we had thunder and lightning and rain showers and then the wind indeed changed to the east and all was well in the world. By early afternoon we were back to partly sunny or partly cloudy, whatever you make of it. I think it was partly cloudy as there was still more cloud and blue sky but the sun was out again.

Captain Pieter Bant.

I do not really have to worry about the weather, although I do as it comes natural after so many years at sea, as the real worrying should be done by the ship’s captain. And we have a new one. Captain Colm Ryan went on leave in Ft. Lauderdale and his replacement is Captain Pieter Bant.

He is one of our newer captains but I have known him for a very long time. He will remain on the Veendam for a regular contract and then Captain Ryan will return. Captain Bant replaces Captain Noel O’Drisscoll who is transferring to the Koningsdam as he wanted to have a go at all the new gadgets, which the Veendam does not have.

We have a whole musical “captain” chair happening again due to the introduction of the Nieuw Statendam in December, the retirement of Captain Peter Bos and the passing away of a Seabourn Captain, which caused one of our captains to go over and to take his place.

Although we like a steady Trade Wind in this area as it brings predictable and nice weather; the wrong wind yesterday had one advantage, it gave less adverse current and no adverse wind. Normally we have to push against the Antilles current here (A sort of Northerly brother of the Gulf Stream) but this current gets a lot of its momentum from the Trade Winds which help with pushing the surface water to the North West at a faster rate. When the wind stops, then that momentum reduces somewhat and we notice that in the speed the ship makes. No adverse winds and less opposing currents can quickly give 0.5 knot less friction and 0.5 knots in 24 hrs. is 12 miles and that is with our average speed about 50 minutes of free sailing. The Chief Engineer was smiling today as it helps to stay inside the fuel budget.

Sailing through the Virgin Passage about 2 am. in the morning.

This evening we make landfall at Puerto Rico and then tonight we will sail through the Virgin Passage which separates Puerto Rico from the US Virgin Islands. From there we will approach Charlotte Amalie from the West as it is located on the south side of the island in a natural bay. Tomorrow there are only two ships in port and both ships have been assigned to dock at WICO, which is the main pier and the original port of St. Thomas. There is a 2nd cruise berth location in Crown Bay which is used when “downtown” read the WICO pier is full. (West Indian Company) Holland America used to dock there a lot but lately they are sending the very big ones there as it is easier from them to get in and out of.

This was WICO pier in the old days before the cruise ships came and the pier was upgraded step by step. Tomorrow we will see what has changed.

The other ship is the Silver Wind which is much smaller than the Veendam and as the dock can take 3 mega liners, we will have plenty of room to park ourselves somewhere nice. Where ever we park, there will be plenty of shops to choose from as the whole Havensight area is one big shopping Mall. For the guests it might be positive to have only two smaller ships in as there seems to be a correlation between the height of the price and the number of cruise passengers ashore.  I might have a quick look to see if they have re-opened the book shop on the pier as it was closed last year, although book prices do not go up and down with the number of ships coming in.  We will be at the pilot station at 07.00 hrs. and should be docked at Havensight 45 minutes later.

Weather for Tomorrow: Partly Cloudy with a regular Trade Wind Breeze and 27oC / 80oF. It should be a good and normal Caribbean day.

07 March 2018; Fort Lauderdale, USA.

And indeed the HAL parade took place; Veendam followed by Koningsdam, followed by tankers and other cargo ships. We all went to our regular docks and by 07.00 hrs. everything was in full swing. Another nice thing about having only two cruise ships in port is that the immigration procedures go so much faster. There are more CBP officers available to process each ship as the number of them is finite and 16 divided by 2 gives better processing power than 16 divided by 4 ships. As a result I could walk off and back on again just after 09.30 to get my weekly stamp. The authorities are always very eager to see me and to make sure, if I am still l there and if I still have a valid visa. So I did my little bit to help to achieve the zero count which means that everybody has disembarked or in case of the CVG guests (Collector Voyages Guests) have paraded off and back on again. (If they did not go ashore of course)

The view in Fort Lauderdale is at dock 21 not really exciting. They have demolished the old terminal 24 and 25  and a new one is under construction. For those whose memory gos back a long time, in the 80’s there used to be a nice restaurant at the end of this pier called Bert and Jack.

I just realized by talking to a guest today that there are a lot of guests out there who do not have much of an idea of what goes on during the Passenger Boat Drill just before departure. They are told to wait until the 2nd alarm goes, then go to the cabin, wait for the 3rd alarm and then go to deck. And there wait for further developments.  But what goes on behind the scenes is another matter and a lot goes on behind the scenes. We have three alarms, to make it easier for everybody in case of an emergency.  The law requires that everybody gets into the lifeboat and with the lifeboat into the water in 30 minutes.  That is not easy to do with a full house and with a complement of which not everybody is as agile as they once used to be.

So we have the first Alarm, the well-known fire alarm, which calls the fire teams and a number of support teams to stations. That normally solves all problems in a real emergency. Then we have a second alarm: the Crew Alert Alarm. Now all crew will start executing a function as things might be a bit more serious than just a local fire, or there is something else going on. We can use this alarm also for a search of suspicious packages or if somebody is missing. With this alarm we normally ask guests to go to their cabin and in that way all families are together or reunited again. In the mean time we have sweep teams go through the ship to find stragglers or confused people and on the outside decks the boats and rafts are prepared……. In case of.

Now if the captain then thinks that it might become very seriously, he sounds the General Emergency Alarm (the famous 7 short and 1 long blast alarm) and everybody who does not have a function, that are all the guests and some crew go to their lifeboat stations. If the lifeboats would have to go down now, then they are already ready and then we can comply with the 30 minute rule to get everybody away from the ship.

To support this organization, we have with Holland America three groups on the ships:

Command & Control: runs the Fire teams, the boat and raft lowering teams, Medical, the Evacuation Teams that control the whole operation. Captain is in charge.

Technical Control: The whole engine team to support the fire teams and the Chief Engineer takes the lead when there is a technical fire.

Muster Control: this is the Hotel Director with the front office staff and they lead the whole movement of all guests and crew during the various alarm stages. They also control the various groups that support this, such as Passenger Area sweep team, Crew Area sweep team, Passenger Assist Team (cabin stewards), Club Hal, Deck Clearing Team, Stairway Guides, Document Securing Team (collecting passports and money) and the Emergency Elevator Operator Team. They also monitor the full mustering of everybody. That is now done by I Pod scanning devices and the results can be followed on the computer.

This screen shows all the counts coming in.  In this case for crew liferafts but for the lifeboats it works the same. Green is complete and red still in progress. The round pie to the right, blue what is in and red what is still outstanding

With all the teams deployed, it is not possible for any guest or crew to go missing or to be left behind and everybody will survive an emergency. We drill this constantly and it is one of my focus points when I am on board to observe and test these groups so that they live up to the standards. I am not an auditor, because yes I point out omissions but I also solve them by giving guidance, training and having them go through the routine one more time. Normally it runs like clockwork, as it should, but with 569 crew on board,…………….. there is always one.

We are now going on an Eastern Caribbean Cruise, calling at St. Thomas, St. Barthelome, St. Lucia – Antigua – St. Croix –Half Moon Cay and then back to Ft. Lauderdale.

Weather: a bit of a mixed bag. At the moment the wind is blowing from the wrong direction due to this weather front up north. That will pull away and then the regular Trade Wind weather has to re-establish itself. We will see that on our 2nd sea day when we will have rain and the wind will go from south west, to north to north east and then to east again. So by the time we arrive in St. Thomas the weather should be back to what it is supposed to be.

05 March 2018; Georgetown, Grand Cayman.

This was one of those days, that did not look very good, but the ship made it work and it turned out well later. The Veendam sailed with a slow speed from the pilot station of Cienfuegos around the west point of Grand Cayman and then approached the anchorage of Georgetown. It was a whole parade as the 3 other ships were following behind us.  We could see as soon as it started to get light that we had two challenges: 1. The wind was from the wrong direction and we could not anchor. All the ships would veer the wrong way and come too close to each other or to the reefs or both. So the whole happy club had to stay on the engines and drift, but drift so little that they still would not come too close to each other. 2. This wrong wind, caused by the same system which made us stay away from Cienfuegos yesterday, brought a large band of nasty looking clouds over the island. And nasty looking clouds come with lots of nasty wind.  Extra wind pushes up the waves and that causes challenges for the safe tender service.

All ships drifting off the port. You can clearly see the prop wash of the Norwegian Escape, just behind the tenders.

Luckily the regular wind pushed those clouds away and by 09.00 hrs. we had regular Grand Cayman weather, sunny with nice small bands of white Cumulus clouds. Only the wind itself was still from the wrong direction. But for that we have the Captain and his navigation team and they played all day with the ship to keep it in position. Newer ships have D.P. or dynamic positioning. The GPS (Global Positioning System) is connected directly to the propellers and bow thrusters and it keeps the ship in the same spot, give or take a few feet. A navigator has only to sit behind the screen and make sure that it keeps doing what it is supposed to do. The Veendam is from an older generation. Although it has all the maneuvering gadgets, they are not connected to any automatic system, you cannot push a button and let it goe by itself. The captain has to push his own button and do it all by himself. (Or delegate to the Staff Captain on other Senior Officer)

When the wind is right. All ships with the bow on the shallow part and the stern still in the deep part. (Thank you Google Earth)

To drop the anchor we need a steady North Easterly wind and not a Northerly wind as we had today. What we do then, is we sail towards the reef outside Georgetown harbor. Grand Cayman is nothing but the top of a mountain pinnacle which rises up for a 1000 feet from the sea bottom. So we anchor on the ledge where the water is about 30 feet deep. That is where the anchor is and that is where the bow is. The stern is still floating over the 1000 feet depth. As all 4 ships anchor nicely in a row, they all get a little area assigned where they can drop the hook. To make sure that this goes right, the pilot boat comes out and parks itself above the exact location and then the captain brings the ship, read the anchor, exactly above the pilot boat. If he over shoots, the bow will hit the shallows, if he stays too far out, the anchor will miss the reef. Once in position the pilot boat moves away and the ship can drop the anchor.  Thus far no anchor has hit the pilot boat yet but there have been a few close calls where a too eager officer on the bow did not wait long enough for the pilot boat to be completely away. The anchor goes down and then the ship goes sideways so that the anchor chain is laid out over a section of the reef and the pilot in his boat advises if things are going well.

A view from the electronic chart, with the bow exactly on the edge of the 20 meter depth line and the anchor just outside the 10 meter depth line.

He does this with all four ships in a row and if they all do the same thing then each ship ends up 180 meters, or one cable, or 1/10 th. of a mile away from each other. That is not much but as the wind blows against all the ships in the same way, they all are being pushed to deep water and line up behind their anchor, which is hooked into the reef and keeps the ship in position. But that only works if the wind is exactly north east. Which it normally is, as that is the direction of the Trade Winds. Except when a weather front further north causes the wind to come from a different direction as was the case today.

With four ships in, out guests had to share downtown, and the tours and the beaches with 12000 other guests and that made for a busy day. Still it can be worse. On the 20th of March the Nieuw Amsterdam is in with some really big boys and together they will put 20,000 guests ashore. Not much can be done about it, cruising is becoming more and more popular and with ships on the 7 day circuit, so they are all in the same ports on the same day at the same time as they depart and return to Florida each weekend.

From Grand Cayman we will sail back to Fort Lauderdale with a day at sea tomorrow and then in Fort Lauderdale we will start a cruise to the East Caribbean. By tomorrow the wind should be in the south east as it is still under the influence of the weather front up north. That wind will remain a challenge for the coming days.

All that nasty pink stuff up in North America causes the wind patterns to change in the Northern part of the Caribbean Sea.

04 March 2018; Cienfuegos, Cuba. Almost.

While the sun was rising behind the mountains of Cuba, the Ms Veendam approached the pilot station of Cienfuegos with the plan to sail through the narrow entrance at 06.30 and then to be at anchor by 07.30 hrs. for clearance by the local authorities. All eyes on the bridge were on the anemo meter to see how much wind there was blowing. In the entrance we had to make a 90o turn in a channel that is only 300 feet wide.

This is the challenge, the ship has to make this turn. The under water is 300 feet wide and the Veendam has a beam of over a 100 feet.

The Veendam is the largest cruise ship that has ever attempted to anchor at Cienfuegos and it relies on there being no more wind than 5 to 7 knots in the turn. So we were watching closely as the wind in open waters was around 20 knots and gusting higher. Normally there is not much wind on this side of the island but a weather system off the Carolina’s is producing a lot of wind while moving into the Atlantic and the tail is just laying over Cuba. Not nice.

The Master – pilot conference with the Navigation Team watching. They are looking at a large television on which we can project the electronic chart.

The captain had his doubts, the bridge team had its doubts, and I had even more doubts as I do not like to go anywhere without a plan B and in this case there is no plan B. You either make the turn or you don’t. If you do not, then a new hotel will be established along the coast line here. The pilot was queried about wind and weather but according to him it was all within the limits. So the captain decided to make an approach and have a closer look. Go not too far enough into the channel so we could still turn around and close enough so that we could see the corner. In nautical language we call this an abort point. While there, the captain asked the opinions of all in the team and then decided to turn around as we could see white caps on the water, at the bend in the channel, and that meant winds higher than 16 knots which was a lot more than the 5 knots we wanted.

This is the challenge. When a ship goes around the corner, it always drifts a little bit even at very slow speed.  If the wind then helps the drift you very quickly get outside the red line and that is bad news.

But you never know the wind might die down, so we tried it for a second time. Things got worse, more wind. Then the pilot advised that there would be even more wind in the afternoon so there was no reason to wait a few hours and see if the wind would die down, giving us the chance to make an afternoon call. So unfortunately the captain had to cancel the call and make it a sea day instead. Going somewhere else was not an option as just hopping over to another Cuban port is not something that really works under the current arrangements of Cuba Allowed Cruising. For the rest there is no other port nearby apart from Grand Cayman and we are already going there tomorrow.   Lots of disappointed guests and crew, including myself as I have never been to Cienfuegos before myself. But safety comes first even if it is a chance in a lifetime to go somewhere. Hal captains do not gamble.

Look to the right, there are mud flats sticking out under water from the Lighthouse so this is as tight as the ship can be and as it needs to be to make the turn. Too much wind and you are set to the other side which is shallow as well.

Thus we said to goodbye to the pilot, who was not happy at all, as most likely back ashore a lot of people would be yelling at him. He might know the channel but he does not know what wind does to a very high cruise ship with balconies. So he might have gained a bit of experience today as well.  The Veendam will be back to Cuba in the future again and hopefully the wind will then do what it is supposed to do here; stay away.

With a sea day, the Cruise Director had to fill an empty daily program and I was roped in as a space filler to keep at least some of our guests happily diverted for a few hours. The Captain decided to join me so he could explain what happened as guests normally equate cancelling ports with bad weather, not with a nice and sunny day. So a little explanation about what was lurking under water helped to raise the mood and was also greatly appreciated. I think it must be the first time in HAL history that two captains were giving a joint presentation on the stage. He used slides from his last call, when he did get in, to explain what the challenge was and these are the pictures you see in this blog today.

For the remainder of the day and night, the Veendam will sail very slow towards Georgetown Grand Cayman where we will arrive around 06.30. For anchoring in Grand Cayman a bit of wind is good; we are at anchorage number 4 which is the nearest one to the port and, if available, we will get help from a few shore side tenders to speed our operation. All good things after not such a good day. But it is going to be a busy day tomorrow, with the Brilliance of the Seas, the Norwegian Escape, the Carnival Miracle and the Veendam nicely lined up outside the port. They will put 12,014 guests ashore if everybody is going, not counting crew.  It is going to lively in Front street. But we are still lucky, on March 20th. The Nieuw Amsterdam is in port together with a few biggies and they will put ashore just over 20,000 guests.  I will stay on board and use my time to teach the shop staff how to deal with guests who do not want to go to the Guest Boat drill.  That is much more fun.

03 March 2018, Sailing Around Cuba.

Just after 01.30 last night the good ship Veendam pulled out of Havana and returned to open sea. Most guests I spoke to found it a most interesting experience and the common remark was that Cuba was far from being in the bad state as some politicians said it was. The old American cars are becoming rapidly a status symbol and more and more new cars are appearing on the road. Because Cienfuegos is all the way at the other side of Cuba, we spent the day going around the island. It is a distance of 301 miles from sea buoy to sea buoy and with our planned arrival time of 06.15 hrs. at the pilot station, we have to maintain an average speed of just over 16 knots to make it work.  The port is located deep inland in an inland bay and from the pilot station it takes another another hour to get to the anchorage.

The ms Veendam rounding the West Point of Cuba, Cabo San Antonio at 12.23. hrs. in the morning.

But I promised a blog about HAL and Cuba. Holland America started out on the North Atlantic run with ships sailing between Rotterdam and New York. The first ships were passenger ships with a large cargo capacity and they could deal with both human and non-human cargo at the same time. But the emigrant trade to New York brought in a lot of money and in 1909 HAL bought a company called the Neptune Line and that gave it access to ports away from New York. Nowadays we would call that diversification. Those ports were to the North of New York, Boston and further up towards Chesapeake Bay. The next logical thought was what we can do in the north, we can also do in the south with ports along the South East Coast and around the Gulf (including Mexico) and this gave rise to the “Gulf Service”.

The ss Andijk (I) seen here in an East Coast port.

When sailing from Rotterdam to those ports, it is impossible not to sail past Cuba and thus did Havana appear on the horizon. On 26 November the ss Andijk arrived in Havana and stayed there for 5 days.  No doubt much appreciated by the crew. It loaded sugar and rum to take back to Europe and from there it continued its round trip to Vera Cruz, Tampico – Puerto Mexico and New Orleans and then headed back to Rotterdam. Apart from the maiden HAL call at Havana it was also the first voyage of this new service.

An old postcard of the ss Maasdam for the Spanish market. She was a sister ship to the Edam.

With the First World War going on, things slowed down considerable. There was the U boat danger and some ships had been confiscated by the USA when it entered the war in 1917. But once the war was over the cargo service resumed. Then the USA started to reduce the emigrate inflow which cost Holland America a lot of money as the large passenger ships were not sailing full anymore. So the idea was born to start a passenger service to Mexico from Rotterdam calling at Spain and Portugal on the way. The idea was to cash in on the part-time labor trade when men from Portugal and Spain went to Cuba for the sugar cane harvest and back. This new service was inaugurated by the ss Edam (IV) in 1922.

The Veendam II at full speed at sea. Only one funnel was real so only one funnel smoked.

Then the company decided to get involved more extensively in cruises to the West Indies and the Veendam (II) was assigned for this work. On 18 March 1926 the ship left New York and called at Havana and then continued to Kingston – Colon – Cartagena – San Juan – Hamilton and then back to New York. So the Veendam (II) was the ship that made the first company cruise to Cuba. From then on, various ships of the company called at Havana and it continued after the war until the revolution started followed by the embargo.

The ss Arkeldyk was one of a series of Victory cargo ships purchased after the end of the war.

The last HAL ship to call at Havana was the cargo ship ss Arkeldyk which had left Rotterdam on the 18th. of Feb. 1962 and she called at Havana – Houston – Corpus Christi – Brownsville – Galveston – Houston – Le Havre – Antwerp and then returned to  Rotterdam. Then things got political and nothing happened until 1980.

The Grand Dame of the Seas, the ss Rotterdam V made world cruises from 1959 to 1997.

Then to everybody’s amazement Holland America obtained an exemption to call at Havana as the final port of the world cruise of 1980. The ship had left New York on 09 January and after going westwards around the world arrived in Havana on the 15th. of April where it stayed from 0700 hrs. in the morning until 18.11 hrs. in the evening. From there it sailed to Fort Lauderdale and New York to end the world cruise.

The ms Veendam IV docked at Havana yesterday. Continuing the HAL tradition.

And now we are back and the Veendam (IV) is making regular cruises to Havana from American ports. In my personal opinion, a communist is a capitalist without money, so the more we call here; the better it is for the country and its future. And we are already doing that by going to Cienfuegos tomorrow.

The weather is supposed to be similar again 80oF and 27oC with sunny skies. The sun block 30 advice remains in place.

02 March 2018: Havana, Cuba.

It is only short hop from sea buoy to sea buoy and thus the Veendam drifted around a little bit during the night and then made with great precision the exact pilot time of 06.15 in the morning. Getting into to port is a very short run, you hardly have time to speed up and then you have to put the brakes on again to make the turn to the cruise terminal on the western side of the harbor. The terminal is an original from the 1950’s and probably from even earlier, when the ships were not so large as nowadays and a regular size ocean liner would be about half the size of the Veendam.

Three terminals from the old days. The first one has been spruced up and listens to the beautiful name of Terminal Sierra Maestra San Franciso. (Sounds a lot better than Terminal B……) the 2nd cruise ship was the Berlin, sailing for the German market. she is a lot smaller and just fitted inside.

Thus we stuck out by about 30 meters, leaving the stern overhanging considerably and all the stern lines were running as spring lines thus leading forward. If we had had a strong North Easterly wind today we would have needed a tugboat to have kept the stern against the dock. The only other option would have been to have dropped the hook in the large inner harbor and have run a tender service or dock somewhere at a larger cargo terminal.  Tendering would not have been much fun as the water in the harbor has a very special fragrance and it is not one that you buy in little bottles.

A friendly guard in the maritime musem. She had family in Zeeland, the Netherlands and set me on course for the National Archives.

The ship is still gearing up for all my activities that I want to conduct here on board and while waiting for that I had time to run ashore. I had never been to Cuba nor has anybody else who has sailed for a long time with Holland America. From the good old days the port has three passenger terminals left over, two are in very bad state but the 3rd one has been nicely restored into a regular cruise terminal complete with an embarkation terminal, Money exchange and souvenir shops. Wages are not that high in Cuba so no lack of man & woman power and I have never seen so many Customs people in place, doing both the passport checks and the security scanning. Funny thing is, they scan you going out and going in, so you can not take anything dangerous ashore but you also cannot to take it back. And after having walked through the sealed off Customs area, the ship scans everybody one more time. I have seldom felt so safe in my life. It almost looked like Charles de Gaulle Airport in Paris.

Downtown is not far, as a matter of fact the nose of the ship is in down town. It just depends which way you want to go. The whole old city is right in front of the terminal but the main museum area is a little bit to the west, closer to the sea and that was also my first focus point. I was heading for the Maritime Museum housed in a fort/ castle and called Castillo de la Real Fuerza. It was originally built to protect the harbor but then they realized that is was too far inland, so they had to build another one and made this one the Governors Mainson. (In the days that Cuba was Spanish.)

Three forms of transport in Havana. Those yellow eggs to the left are scooters which can take two passengers all over town. In the center the old American cars and a green Lada and to the far right, Horse and Cart sightseeing tours.

I wanted to find out if the museum had anything about Holland America but the collection is mainly focused on the days of the Gold and silver export from South America. A very nice lady told me that all the paperwork was most likely held at the National Library, just around the corner, so that was the next stop.  This was bit more complicated as what I wanted was a bit out of the routine of the Security (All ladies, in both Musea) but eventually a young lady on high heels introduced herself as the Curator of the uncatalogued collections and explained that she thought there were photos from the port from before (before meaning here before the revolution) but she had no idea what and she could not get at it. What a pity, I wished that all museum curators looked like her; then the reading rooms would be a lot fuller than they are now.

It gave me a good feeling, this natural way of trying to help. So I like the people here, friendly and warm; and Ladies if you go ashore here, keep your husbands on a short leash as the ladies are beautiful, there are lots of them, the dresses or jeans are very tight and it all jiggles in the right places. Even in the museums. Luckily I am happily married.

Modern Havana. High rises just off the coast line. The area with the tourists hotels starts right behind it.

Next stop, after a walk through the Old City, was Central Square, looking for the hop on hop off Bus. They have one but it is operated by a governmental travel agency and thus it has not the familiar red colors but its blue and it has a ticket stand inside the Bus. Then for the next 105 minutes (At $ 10 a person) the bus went all around the west side of the city. That is everything west of the old town. Apart from the main thru fare as you cannot get a big bus through the old streets but the route stayed away from the South East part leading towards the lower side of the inner harbor. Still it gave a very good impression of Havana. The wide boulevards which must have been very impressive in the old days, the run down Villa’s (although there is a lot of refurbishment and restauration going on) the communist new builds (some of them very colorful) the Colon Cemetery, very impressive if you are into that sort of thing and of course the Plaza de Revolution with a concrete pole in the middle, which you could see as a space rocket station if you did not know any better. A lot of guests took a tour around the city in one of the large number of old American cars, many of them convertibles and all in very good condition (at least on the outside), but I prefer  the open top bus as you sit higher and have a better overview.

This was the most suprising thing I saw. Right in downtown between the shops and restaurants a semi open air dress factory. The sales shop was right next door

My last stop was looking for 2nd hand book stores as they normally also have post cards and other stuff. I had not planned this but I had time, and my wife can tell you that I have a homing-radar for bookshops, I do not even look for them, I just find them. And here in Havana there are plenty. Lots of revolutionary stuff, but also lots of Stuff from “before”.  Nothing of my interest but one store had some very nice French historical editions from late 19th century and you can buy them but you cannot easily take them out of the country. The antiquarian explained that if I bought one of the older books, it might get confiscated in the terminal “for checking”. Even if it was a book about Napoleon.  He could have sold me the book and then have left me to deal with Customs but he was friendly and honest.  So I contributed some money as a thank you instead to a big red can with a picture of Che Guevara on it. No idea what it was for but it made the youngest daughter happy,  dressed in red skirt and necktie.

This is how Havana port looks like on the Radar / Electronic map. The ship is to scare and you see we overhang quite a bit.

The ms Veendam will stay until tomorrow morning 02.00 hrs. so the guests can enjoy the night life with all the live music in the restaurants, bars, and open squares. Then we will sail around Cuba heading to Cienfuegos on the Southside for the day after tomorrow. So tomorrow I will put a few things in the blog about Holland America History and Cuba.

 

27 Feb. 2018; At Sea, Day 2.

Another day with perfect weather. The ms Zuiderdam is busy with making up the lost time from our late departure from Puerto Limon and made landfall off Cuba at 10.30 this morning. The remainder of the day we will spend curving around the west coast and then heading into the Straits of Florida. There we will look for the Gulf Stream and try to find as much current as we possibly can to get a very economic push in the back. By 4 pm. we expect about 2 knots every hour (unless the Gulf Stream has crept all the way under the Florida coast) and we should keep that all the way to Ft. Lauderdale. Giving us about an hour travelling free of charge. I calculated in one of the previous blogs that the savings can be considerable.

Thus every ship is eagerly looking for the location of the Gulf Stream. Still the general flow of the Gulf Stream is so wide that the ships are not sitting/ sailing on top of each other and fighting for the same track line. Most ships will keep a distance of about a mile, even if it considers itself not having the full advantage of the free current. But I have seen it in the past that a ship crossed the bow of my own ship while following a course line that was supposed to bring it to the axis of the Gulf Stream; at least there where its captain thought it would be. When we called the ship, we were told in no uncertain terms that we were interfering with their progress on the course ordered by the master. Nothing you can do about such focus and thus we moved our ship a little bit out of the way, in case the master suddenly had another insight of where the optimal current might have been.

I have been ranting about the weather for most of this cruise but today we had the 2nd day that the weather was in synch with what we were expecting and what it should be on average. Just a wind force 4, sunny skies and some Cumulus clouds in the air.  We kept wind force 4 until we were past Cabo San Antonio on the west coast of Cuba and turned to the North East into the Straits of Florida; and it breezed up a little bit. The mountain range which lies over the whole island of Cuba is acting as a sort of natural border between the Caribbean Sea with its Trade Winds and the Bahamas with its cold fronts rolling in from the North East. Thus the wind in the Straits of Florida is predominantly North East and against us.  When it is a normal strength wind, wind force 4 to 6 it is not a problem and we just push against it as it generates only a low swell. But if the wind increases to Storm force then it blows against the strong current of the Gulf Stream and that can create a very nasty short swell which can make ships pitch (up and down moment of the bow) considerably. Cruise ships have to slow down then and if they don’t then it is really time to get the green apples out against the sea sickness.  But no worries today as the Aussies would say.

These are good weather – cumulus – clouds and thus every sailor loves to see them. Not to confuse with  cumulus – nimbus which are those billowing clouds which indicate rain and wind,

It being a midweek call it will be a rather quiet day with cruise ships in Ft. Lauderdale. Only the Royal Princess and the Veendam will be in port together with us, not counting the cargo ships which will be in and out all day. The whole world knows Port Everglades and Fort Lauderdale as being a major cruise ship port but it is also a major cargo port, with oil tankers and barges, container ships and even bulk carriers. The oil tankers have berths between Cruise docks 1 and 17 and the container ships and bulk carriers go up the intra-coastal. Although container ships sometimes also dock at the cruise docks if there is no cruise ship in. Especially if a container ship has its own cranes, then it does not really matter as it only needs trucks to drive in and to drive out. The ships crane will unload and load without anything needed to be stored on the dock.

By 07.00 hrs. Tomorrow morning the good ship ms Zuiderdam should be docked in Ft. Lauderdale. By 10.30 they should be making the final call for all guests to leave the ship. That will include me then as for the CBP I have to disembark as service staff with the guests. Then I will cross the street and with a 5 minute walk from dock 26 to dock 21, I should be on board the ms Veendam 30 minutes later.

It should be a balmy sunny day of 80oF or 27 oC. with no rain expected thus I will not need my umbrella.

Tomorrow there will be no blog due to my walk over the dock and getting into the swing on board the ms Veendam.

For those who would not like to be deprived of their daily dose, I suggest to klick on the link below. I have just uploaded the biography of Captain Peter Bos. He will be retiring from Holland America after 27 years. For those of you who know him, please leave a little comment on the page, I am sure he will appreciate it.

https://www.hollandamerica.com/blog/albert/current-captains-and-their-schedules/noordam-capt-peter-bos/

 

Good bye ms Zuiderdam with a photo showing the weather we had today (Courtesy Holland America Line)

 

 

26 Feb. 2018; At Sea, day 1.

The weather is finally acting according to what it should be and we had a glorious Caribbean Sea day. The normal trade wind is blowing, the sun is shining and there are only some normal cumulus clouds in the air. The guests are complaining that it is hot outside on deck and thus we have the correct weather. We went an hour forward last night to get back on Florida time and with staying as well, our schedule has become quite tight. Thus the Captain is keeping the pedal to the metal, as well because he had to conduct a crash stop today.

The standard setting for Pods. They pull the ship forward. We have Azi pods made by ABB. There also other company’s.

Once a year we have to conduct a crash stop to ensure that we can slow down very quickly if needed. Normally we do this before going into dry dock. But as the ships normally only go dry every 2.5 years we sometime have to do it at sea.
It means pulling the handles from full ahead with 20 knots speed to full astern and then see how long it takes before the ship has come to a complete standstill and how much distance it took to accomplish this. On regular propeller ships, it means flipping the propeller blades full to the other side, or reversing the turning of the propellers if they have fixed bladed screws. For a podded ship such as the Zuiderdam it means turning the Azipods by 180o degrees and let the propellers push the water the other way.
Azipods, when going forward, have the propellers in the front of the Pod so they have the optimum flow.

 

Third officer Camiel van den Berg turning the Azipods around, under the watchful eye of Captain Bart Vaartjes.

Then when they are turned 180o, then they are behind the pod and so it looks as it does with a regular ship. That was tried this morning. The maneuver can be compared with you driving your car at 70 mph. and then pulling the hand brake to avoid a collision. It works but it is not such a pleasant experience. Thus the captain announced to the guests that they might feel some vibration. The engineers are on standby to ensure that all goes well downstairs and then at 10.30, the Officer of the Watch pulled the handles.

The readout on the bridge, the speed is already down to 7 knots and the Azi pods are point aft.

When the pull of the propellers stop. You immediately get a slowdown in speed and then the de-acceleration sets in as soon as the propellers get a grip on the water, but now the other way around. The vibration starts the moment the ships speed has reduced so much (from 20 to about 7 knots) and the Azipods are now pushing water under the ship’s hull. That gives bubbles and turbulence and that causes the vibration which carries quite strongly through the ship.
We can see that a ship is coming to a standstill, as soon as the foam of the waves, caused by the reversed propeller wash starts to march forward along the hull. Once it is amidships, the ship has come to a standstill. If the the wash travels further forward then the ship is going astern.

The propeller wash is coming to the midships. the ship has stopped in the water.

 

The Zuiderdam stopped after 6.6 cables distance which is about 4 ships lengths. Back to your car; you drive into a garage which can park four cars in a row of your size with 70mph and then pull the hand brake. Then you manage to stop before hitting the wall. That is the idea that we do with a ship of 86000 tons of momentum.

The read out from the bridge chart plotter.

As you can see from the photo above, the ship stayed nicely on a straight line, until it had almost come to a complete stand still. Then it got caught by the Trade Wind blowing from the Starboard side and that started very quickly pushing the ship of its course. But one kick ahead and the ship was back on track. The whole happening, from planning to speeding up again took less than 10 minutes.
Today we sailed off the coast of Costa Rica, El Salvador and Nicaragua. From there we will head on a straight line for Cabo San Antonio on the west side of Cuba. We should be there sometime tomorrow morning, all depending how much push we get from the Gulf Stream which we are now nearing. The weather looks the same for tomorrow and so the guests who did not get sun burned today will have another chance tomorrow.

I could not resist this one. This is what happens when you do the same thing with a small boat. (Courtesy: Metal Craft Marine)

 

Older posts Newer posts