The bay stretches from the lower left – open sea, to the far right. At the end is the town of Kotor. (Thank you Google Maps)

Kotor has always been a sort of hidden gem in the cruise business, but was visited by small cruise ships and private yachts even before the 2^nd world war. Then the troubles with the breaking up of Yugoslavia came and until that was settled there was no cruise ship traffic all. Now the industry is booming and every day in the summer there are one or more cruise ships present.  Today there was us and the Seabourn Odyssey and we had the dock. Guests do not always realize how lucky they are, that the company can secure a dock. We do so many different cruises that we are never the “senior” ship calling who can get preference because it comes in every week. So we need to have a bit of luck. Today it was easy, we were with Seabourn which is our sister company and things can then be arranged in house. The Oosterdam docked until the departure time of 14.00 hrs., then the Odyssey who was at anchor and ran a tender service  went alongside as soon as were gone.

The narrow passage in the Gulf of Kotor. This was at 05.30 in the morning, I was already up and about as at the moment I am teaching the deck cadet how to do stations and how to lead the Bo’sun and his team with the mooring ropes on the bow.

Sailing into Kotor is one of the most scenic arrivals that there are. If you like ice and trees then Glacier Bay will win. But if you like to look at villages, old and new houses, fortresses and churches perched against the hill side, and then Kotor ticks all the boxes. Going in was early today as it takes nearly two hours from the pilot station to the dock but worthwhile to get up for. For those who did not want to do that, the same thing could be seen on departure but due to the lay out of the Gulf of Kotor sailing in gives a better look.

Most spectacular is the narrow sail through near Lepetane. The gap is just over a 1000 Feet wide and sits under and angel of 90o onto the rest of the Bay. In width is comparable to Seymour Narrows north of Vancouver. There they have the current, here they have the wind. Because of the lay out of the Bay, (according to experts it is not a bay but a Rija or submerged river canyon) even a gentle breeze can blow up to storm force as the steeps mountains on either side compress the wind into a narrow beam. Thus everybody on the bridge was completely focused and looked for the smallest white cap on the water to see if the wind could suddenly pick up; because if it hits the ship while coming out of the gap, the rocks on either side are very near. Today we were lucky, we had some wind, but once around the last corner it was a gentle sunny day. The predicted rain only arrived after we departed.

I found this on google earth. A Vista Class ship alongside.. See how far the stern overhangs the dock.

The guests did like the port as nearly all 2000 came back in the last hour. Reason for us on board to rejoice because if we had been tendering…… then we would have had very long lines as the tender service cannot process that number at the same time; even with four docking platforms going. So we were happy that we were docking. What the guests do not realize is that happiness on the bridge is tinged with concern as we do not fit alongside. The part of the pier that is deep enough is Prinsendam size not Oosterdam size. Thus we have to be creative with the ropes at the stern and the captain kept the Starboard Azipod going at all times, to keep the stern pressed against the dock.

Creativity by the officer on the aft mooring station. As we have only lines leading forward, two lines were led around a bollard on the opposite side and then tied up onto the ship itself. What we can do as we have “Dutch bollards” in recesses in the ships hull.

In the meantime, the guests crossed the street as the old city was less than 300 yards away. We cannot do much better than that.

Friendly crew at the gangway. Another Holland America Line tradition. At the gangway we have officers wishing the guests a nice day ashore. This time Front Desk attendant, Cruise Director and Guest Relations manager.

Kotor has been there for a long long time, but the Fortress and the Walls, which are perched against the cliffs, are mostly from the Venetian times of the 1500’s when Venice was by far the most powerful entity in the Mediterranean. A pity we did not stay in the afternoon as the old town is a delight to walk through and sitting on the main square with a good glass of beer is an experience not to be missed. But we sailed early and in the morning my presence was required in the Main Galley. Not to teach the cooks how to cook but to teach them what to do when their cooking goes wrong.

One of the old streets in Kotor. The whole downtown area looks like this and is a delight to walk around in and to get lost in.

We left Kotor at 14.00 hrs. as it is a tight schedule to make it to Venice on time. Here we stay overnight. Tomorrow afternoon and evening the guests of this cruise have the chance to see the place and then the day after tomorrow the new guests arrive; although we have quite a few CVG guests on board who are doing back to back cruises, or have strung 3,4, or 5 together.

The old town of Kotor right across from the bow of the ship. Kotor is a UNESCO world heritage site; is very well preserved and since there is peace in ex- Yugoslavia, a a lot of restoration of the old buildings is taking place.

Weather for Venice. Partly cloudy with 28oC or 82oF. The 2^nd day there will be a 50% chance of rain.

Argostolion or Argostoli is located on the island of Cephalonia or Kefalonia, one of the Ionian Sea islands, on the west side of the Peloponnesus. We arrived here by sailing around the south point and through the passage north of the island of Kithira. It is much easier to go around as then there is no traffic but it is 16 miles longer so all traffic goes through the passage. This passage is called Steno Elafosinou and Steno means strait or passage.  The passage is quite wide but the number of idiots going through is also quite extensive. Last evening it was fairly normal; every ship made the course changes on time and every ship gave each other a little bit of room. But that is not always the case as we come in this area of the Mediterranean on the routes to Turkey and Russia, across some very original thinkers as far as the rules of the road are concerned.

Our route around the Peloponnesus. The red part is the Strait where things can be very interesting as all ships have to make the same course change. NE to SE when going East and NW to SW when going west.

I still remember very vividly when I was captain on the Noordam in 2001 and we went through here that ahead of us was a very large tanker, close to 300 meters or so. While in the middle of the passage, where everybody makes the course change, it decided to make a full U turn. I assume that the captain had received orders to turn back at once and decided to do so; at once. But there was no announcement, nothing of the kind, just suddenly a large tanker making a turn to port and going around. Tankers need quite a bit of space to make a U turn and thus he was blocking the routes of everybody else. For me on the Noordam it was not much of a problem, we put the brakes on and stayed at a safe distance. But for other cargo ships, those who need a long time to slow down when their engine is on sea speed setting, it was not so nice. So we saw ships scattering hither and dither and one even drifting into the bay on the North side. In the meantime this tanker came very close to the shallows on the North side of the Steno Elafosinou; so close that the officer of the watch on the Noordam started to wonder if we should not get the tenders ready in case a rescue mission was needed. The tanker made it, but only just, and then sailed in the opposite direction. In the meantime the air was “blue” on the VHF by all ships who were questioning the heritage of the captain, wishing him a not so nice future, and promising him a very close personal “ conversation” if they would ever meet him somewhere.

The town of Argostolion. Completely rebuilt after the 1953 earthquake and as a result most of the houses have very similar roofs. The building on the right is the Maritime Academy.

Argostolion is located in an inlet which is quite sheltered except from the Northerly winds, the Etesian winds. And they started to blow today. There is a dock nowadays in the port, also in the north south direction, and that made docking possible. Had there been no dock, then we would have had to cancel as you cannot tender in swells caused by 40 knots of wind and more. But we were docked on time. But for the reminder of the day, the waves were slamming under the stern, sending shudder after shudder through the ship. The town is fairly new as it was partly destroyed by German bombing in the 2^nd world war and then an earthquake in 1953 took care of the rest. Thus all the houses look fairly new and also fairly similar.

Building a dock the most frugal way possible. Three short platforms and the bow and the stern are held in place by mooring lines connected to two buoys.

It was a good day for the guests as the temperature had dropped significantly from yesterday while the sun remained shining, but with a lot of wind blowing. From here there are tours available to inland caves, ancient sides, wineries and botanical gardens; a great variation which made  our tours well booked.

I spent my day in “red tape”. As is required for each shipping company we have to have a Safety Management System. A set of books or a database which gives us regulations and guidance on how to run the ships and how to implement policies for every aspect of life on board. (Although the SMS is compulsory for safety, environmental, security and health only; we have a lot more in it). The challenge is that it is easy to put a regulation into the system but it is not always that easy to find it back. The search engine reacts to key words and the keywords that the policy maker had in mind are not always the same as the searcher will use. It is like doing a google; you do not always get what you were expecting. I was on my ship inspection again and then you have to check the database for every item as the world keeps changing. So I hovered between my computer to find the theoretical requirements and going into the ship to see what had been implemented in a practical way. …………… and it is amazing how complicated everything around a First Aid Kit can be………..

Tomorrow we are in Kerkira or Corfu as the rest of world calls it. It will be sunny again with temperatures of 85oF / 29oC. and it might be windy again. It is only a 106 miles north from here and that means a slow comfortable run further up the coast, and then we will be docked by 08.00 hrs. If the authorities do not change their mind, we should have the best dock in the port with the shortest walking possible distance to the town.

Today we were in Nafplion (or Ναύπλιο in real Greek); also written as Nafplio or Navplion or Nauplion depending on the way you translate the Greek name. As we here on board are all experts in the Greek Language, we have decided based on this extensive knowledge, that the proper translation is Nafplion.  Maybe because of the confusion with the name (and it has been confusing for centuries) it is one of the less well known cruise ship calls. In the summer time there is on average every other day a cruise ship inside but it is nearly all the time only one. It is very popular with small cruise ships who can dock here as long as their draft is less than 6 meters.  Unfortunately the ms Oosterdam is a medium size cruise ship with a draft of 8 meters and thus we have to anchor. But the ship has six tenders and today they took care of a fast and efficient tender service.

The anchorage today. Dark Blue is 10 meters going down to 5 meters. Light blue is 20 meters going down to 10 meters. And white is more than 20 meters of depth. We anchored today with 7 meters under the keel or 22 feet.

We had to anchor about half mile from the tender dock as the port has 6 meters and less depth, then there is the outer port where it goes up to 7 meters and then there is a large area which goes up to 10 meters and then another half a mile down the bay it drops away to 20 meters and then deeper and deeper. Nafplion is located at the end of a bay called the Argolic Gulf and lays on the Peloponnesus. This used to be a peninsula of the Greek Mainland but since they dug the Corinth Canal it is now officially an island as it can only be reached by ferries and over bridges.

Sailing into the port with the tender. With the Fortress on top of the hill and the old town beneath it. In more modern times they have built hotels into the hill over looking the town.

It has always been an important strategic location and the Byzantines, the Ottomans, the Venetians and finally the Greeks have all been fighting over it. Although there have been fortifications here since the early middle ages, it was the Venetians who really built the place up. Expanded the fortress on the top of the hill and built a tower which guarded the natural harbor from the sea side. From the land side there were natural marshes and those are not that easy for armies to get through and thus the place was well protected. Then when the Greeks went for independence in the 1820’s, Nafplion was the first capital of the new State until they decided to move it all to Athens.

So we tendered straight into a major historical area which still has its old world Greek charm with tavernas on the sea side and a picturesque old town with many small shops. I saw one hot and despondent father returning to the ship, who had been dragged around town by mother and two teenage daughters on a shopping spree. Looking at the number of bags, they had given the Greek economy a major boost. And adding insult to injury who had to carry the bags………… Dad. What were the ladies carrying …..? Their cellphones……. If I had been on board I would have bought him a beer……………. He clearly needed one, probably more than one……………

For those who wanted more than 2000 years of local history, Holland America ran tours to the local attractions but also to the Corinth Canal and to temples and other locations out of the Greek Mythology.

I hold since today the record of the largest number of tender transits in Nafplion ever by one person as I went to and from 08.00 hrs. in the morning, to 16.00 hrs. in the afternoon. Examining one tender driver after the other; not only on tender driving skills, but also on communication, dealing with the guests and dealing with emergencies. I have now half of them done and all of them passed with ratings of 70% or higher so we are safe there. The next round will most likely be in Sarande Albania when we have to tender again.

I had never been ashore here as my ship was always at anchor, so now I could stroll into the little town. Only to stroll out again very quickly as it was very warm. Guests who decided to go on tour were the clever ones as out of town and on the mountain there was at least a nice breeze. But I can very much recommend everybody to go here, if you are into history a bit as it is very nice. I would not mind going back here in spring or autumn when it is a bit cooler…………….

Tomorrow we are in Argostolion which is located on the island of Kefalonia on the west side of the Peloponnesus. So tonight the ship will sail around the south point and then north along the west coast until we are docked there a by 10 am.

Weather: More sunshine, but a lot cooler than today (relatively spoken) 28oC or 82oF. and a gentle breeze.

The ms Oosterdam basking in the morning sun on an almost flat sea.

Cadet nbr 1. went home today so I had a reprieve from getting up early but it was an early morning for the captain. The ship was right in position at 04.20 hrs. in the morning and with the pilot hopping on board, there was no delay. Piraeus is really too small for the large cruise ships to get in and out but we still do it and to make it work you have to plan very carefully. While a SMART Car would race into the garage as it would have oodles of room, a Rolls Royce would have to drive in slowly because it would only have a few inches spare on either side when going through the garage door. And we are driving a Rolls Royce into Smart Car port.  Today there were four larger cruise ships in. MSC Musica, Norwegian Star, Norwegian Jewel and the Rolls Royce Oosterdam.

The Piraeus harbor entrance. It is about 100 meters wide and the Oosterdam is 32 meters. That does not leave much room if the wind is blowing and the ships drifts to the south side when slowing down.

The captain and his team had the additional challenge of having been assigned a “parking space” right behind the “garage door” with very little space to swing. So it was decided to sail in and then back up to the dock.  As you can see from the track of the ship, it sailed close to the north breakwater so there was room to drift to the south on the wind while the speed was taken out of the ship and then the stern was brought over so the ship could go astern and sideways to position.

The closer the orange “time” blocks are the shower the speed. So the ship first slowed down and then slowed again to make the turn to embark the pilot, before speeding up to sail into the port.

We docked today at what we call the “Olympic Games” dock. It was completed just in time for the Olympic Games and during the Olympics, the Queen Mary and the Rotterdam were here as Hotels. We have done that before. Yours Truly was with the old Nieuw Amsterdam in Sydney during the 2000 Olympic Games and the Oosterdam was a hotel ship for the Royal Canadian Mounted Police in Vancouver during the winter games there.  (The Mounties showed up without horses which made life easier although the Staff Captain had calculated that the ship would have been able to accommodate about 40 of them getting 5  star HAL service in the Provision handling area) None of the crews ever complain if their ship is going to a Olympic or Football charter. Loss of revenue is normally compensated for and because it is normally alongside for 2 weeks or more, the supervisors have the chance to give their crew at least one or two full days off.

Once inside the brakes were put on and then the ship went astern to the dock.

Holland America tries to store fresh produce and reliable consumables where ever we can and most items are consolidated in a warehouse in Rotterdam and then driven by trucks to a port of call or to a changeover port. If that is Rotterdam or Amsterdam it is a nice short drive but the trucks also show up in Barcelona, Venice, Civitavecchia and Piraeus; which are our main change over ports. Normally big trucks with 40 foot containers. So it was a bit of a surprise to see a small truck this morning, which had come all the way from Holland with prime meat and chicken to keep our guests happy. When we are sailing around North America the meat also comes from a good distance as we have a contract with a farming community in Alberta who supplies nearly all the beef for Holland America and also for a few of our sister companies.

It does not come much more Dutch than this. The company Koekkoek from Vroomshoop, which is a town located in the North East part of the Netherlands.  According to the all knowing internet they sponsor the local soccer club so it must be a good company.

I did not go ashore today; too warm and a lot of guests agreed with me and also stayed on board. It will make my wife happy as A. I did not spend any money and B. I did not forget to use sunblock 35……… as I did not need it. I will be back here sometime in the future and then hopefully my ship will be at the dock all the way in the port; which is much closer to the Maritime bookstore which is right on the water front leading to the town itself.

This evening we sail late, as this is our evening port call of the cruise. For the guests who venture ashore tonight, it should be a nice and warm evening for a stroll along the harbor and visit a few tavernas. We also offer a 4 hr. evening tour which will include some sightseeing, and a Greek show and dinner dance in a restaurant with a view. Which I hope sells well as it is a really good one.

This evening, the captain will back the ship out of the port as that is much easier than to try to swing in the narrow basin and go bow out. From there we sail to Nafplion which is 112 miles away to the southwest of Piraeus. There is no dock so we will anchor. All the sailors are already nervous as tomorrow they have to prove that they are good tender drivers. Same for Cadet nbr 2. as he has to show he is proficient in the companies anchor procedures.

The Weather: it is going to be even warmer then today: 98oF / 37oC with a see breeze in the afternoon.

After our windy adventure yesterday, Crete was a bit of a relief. There was only a gentle breeze blowing when we arrived. That gave the option to swing on arrival without any worries and then be ready to shoot straight out on departure.

The docking. The orange squares indicate the movement of the bridge which in this case was also the pivot point of the ship. There where the curve goes to a straight line is the moment the ship has almost completed its turn and now goes bodily sideways.

With it being so nice and quiet the Captain decided to let a 3^rd officer do the maneuvering. The company encourages the captains to let all the navigation officers get some experience in ship handling and this port, on a not so windy day, is a nice opportunity. The turning basin is more than wide enough for the Oosterdam to swing around in but having “concrete” on both sides of the ship when making the turn is just enough to raise the stress level for a junior officer to make it a challenging affair and a good learning experience. I was once again on the bow with the Cadet and today it was a lot easier than yesterday. The linesmen were only upset once and for the rest it all went very smoothly.

Whatever way you spell the name, the area remains very dry and sandy. The Marque in the front is especially there for embarkation days as there are now also cruise ships who start their cruise from Heraklion. A shuttle bus takes the guests from the ship to the  Terminal Gate entrance located behind the containers. From there you can walk into town, although most guests took the tour to Knossos today.

I still have not figured out if the name is spelled Iraklion or Heraklion and the locals must have issues as well as I saw emails coming by, from the agent, using both versions in the name. A few years ago they were very emphatic about it being Iraklion but now both spellings seem to be around again.

Knossos. I think this is the best known postcard picture of Knossos and most likely also the best selling one. No doubt the maker has long and happily retired and is now living off the license fee coming in.

Crete is part of Greece but it has its completely own culture and in the grey mists of time they were totally separate from what is now the Greek main land. It had a rich culture and the many archeological sites bear witness to date with as the main highlight the Palace of Knossos. Which would not have looked much like a palace if it had not been partly been rebuilt a 100 years ago.  The experts are still arguing whether it was a good idea or whether it was heresy but at least those without a lot of ancient knowledge can see something that otherwise would had to be visualized.

The Ware houses of the Venetian Shipyard in Chania. Located just outside the city walls. The old town right behind it is a great place to go out in the evening.

My preference goes to another town, located in the west of Crete, called Chania. This was for many years a stronghold of the Republic of Venice and there are still warehouses there (With the Lion of Venice above the entrance door) which reminds everybody of those days. The old Venetian dockyard, constructed in the 16^th. Century for their War Fleet is still in very good shape and dominates the water front with the old town behind it.  Somehow I find that town more “Crete” then Heraklion which is the capital. It has a small harbor but it is not suitable for cruise ships as the afternoon wind creates too much swell to keep a safe tender operation going. Thus we stick with Heraklion. Then to the east there are a large number of towns and villages which now all cater for sun, sea and beach tourists, mainly Europeans, who want to make to make sure that they get enough sunshine, even in the summer time.

Nearly all the tourist areas are at the North Side of the island where there is at least a cool breeze (sometimes a cool storm) blowing and that leaves the inland quite unspoilt; and in some area’s even very poor. I do not know how it is now but a number of years ago, when I ventured inland; it did not look like that the large sums of money spent by the tourists was reaching everybody further inland. I hope it has changed as Greece has some monetary problems of its own at the moment; as previous governments have been a little bit too creative with their book keeping and “investments”.

We sail from there to Piraeus where we will arrive early in the morning. Between 05.00 hrs. and 06.00 hrs. all the overnight ferries (including those from Crete) are coming in and they all have preference. So the captain has to decide to be either early or late. As you can never be sure if one or two ferries are coming in after 06.00 hrs. it is better to be early. So the plan is to be at the pilot station at 04.20 hrs. and to be docked before the ferry parade begins.

It will be even warmer tomorrow than it was today: 96oF or 36oC and hardly any wind. That latter is good as the ship has to be parked into a difficult spot. The warmth is not. I was hoping to go to a bookstore that sells Greek shipping books (very hard to get outside Greece) but due to our dock it will be a very long walk. So it will be a battle of the heat against the brain, whether I will go or not.

The problem with Rhodos is it is always windy. Windy nearly every day; but in an unpredictable way. According to the law of (local logic and routine) the wind should start to blow gently in the morning and then steadily increase during the day. So you should have a half decent arrival and a windy departure. The prediction for today was 10 to 14 knots and it was to remain that way for the whole day. For the latter we had high hopes but little confidence. But for arrival we could believe the 14 knots.

It was not to be. Up to 26 knots blew at times from the North West through the port and perpendicular to the ship when we came in. Thus all power was needed to push the Oosterdam alongside the dock and keep her there while the ropes where being sent ashore. That gave more fuss, as the linesmen here are convinced they know it all, that the ships crews are idiots, and they are very vocal in announcing that to the whole world. It is not only Rhodos where this occurs, it is almost over the world, except Mexico, Guatemala and Costa Rica are a strange exception; for some reason they are highly disciplined there.

We always say there is somewhere a Longshoremen Academy in the world, where they all learn the same thing and that is:

A. Being very slow B. Refuse to put the rope on the bollard that the ship needs C. Tell the ship to hurry up D. Make a scene if they have to pull  the rope too far (even when they use a car) E. Show a truculent attitude for the whole period that they are in attendance.

The three arrows: The offending broken bollard, the offending containers, the offending linesmen (just outside the photo)

I was on forward stations this morning with the cadet and he got a very good education today as A to E were all present. On top of that the wind started to breeze up at the wrong moment making it difficult to throw the messenger or heaving line ashore against the wind. Then at the last moment the pilot advised the captain that one (crucial) bollard was cracked and could not be used, it would have been helpful if he had done that before we started to put the lines ashore. Also some bright spark had parked containers in front of another bollard and the whole ship had to go forward for the lines to clear. So the captain was not a happy camper either. But of course we managed ………….. and then the wind died down again to normal for that time in the morning. Welcome to Rhodos.

I was planning to conduct tender operator assessments today for every sailor who had a Tender Proficiency certificate. But as we were now not certain how the wind was going to behave later in the day, we decided to postpone to another port. I am still on board until July 17^th. so there is time.

A caption from www.vesselfinder.com, (of today for Rhodos) which tracks nearly all ships in the world with an AIS. The Blue Star 2 is a ferry and we assume that the Orient Queen had switched off her AIS as she was docked just below the Golden Iris.

For a ship aficionado and historian, sailing in the East Mediterranean, has some interesting perks. It is full of old passenger ships that in other places in the world would have never found employment. Today was no different and we had the Golden Iris with us in port; built in 1974 as the Cunard Conquest and since 2009 operated by an Israelian company called Mano Cruises. They have a sort of pendulum cruise going between Haifa / Ashdod and Rhodos. Then there was the Orient Queen; built in 1989 as the small cruise ship Vistamar for the Spanish market. She is sailing from Beirut to Greek and Turkish ports. And then there was the Gemini. She was built as the Crown Jewel in 1992 for Caribbean Cruises, and then sailed from 1995 to 2016 in the Far East. Came back to Greece as the Celestyal Nefeli and today she is next to us under the colors of ETStur, a Turkish tour company, making Cruises from Izmir in Turkey. The amazing thing for the last one is, is that from 1995 onwards she always kept the same name Gemini, even when changing owners.

The smallest cruise ship in port the ms Orient Queen. Right in front the ruins from the old battlements which protected the old harbor, now the local Marina. This is the Tower of France. See explanation below.

As the smallest ship, she docked closest to the city where there is a small cruise pier that is adjacent to the Marina which is really the old harbor. The ruins on the dock here were a short advance wall / fortification for the larger city walls and protection of the port and city. Built upon the original Byzantine walls after 1309 by the Knights Hospitaller of Saint John. None of the walls were solid. The other skin was of strong stone and the inside filled up with rubble. Good to absorb gun fire but when the outer wall collapses, then the rubble also comes out and it makes for great ruins as can be seen on the photo.

This is one of the major attractions of Rhodos, the extremely well preserved  city walls. From the ship we could see the Tower of France in front of us, which indicates that the ruins we saw were once constructed by the Hospitallers who were from French decent or spoke the French language. (Thank you Wikipedia)

We will sail today from Rhodos at 18.00 hrs. and then head west to Heraklion on Crete. Weather forecast is about the same, so we have no clue what to expect with the wind. But they are most likely correct about the sun. It was hot today but due to the strong wind, it felt pleasant. Very dangerous. Yesterday we saw the first “lobsters” already walking around the ship and I am expecting a few more today and tomorrow.

I find Santorini one of the most peculiar and spectacular places we visit. Where else in the world do you drive with a ship straight into a Volcano crater; and not a small one either. But that is what we do and then we spend the whole day “pushing” guests up and down the mountain. It is one of the more spectacular ports in the Mediterranean and I put it on the same pedestal as Glacier Bay in Alaska, Geiranger Fjord in Norway, Milford Sound in New Zealand and Saguenay Fjord in Canada. The views just take your breath away. The only small item that marred our arrival was that we approached from the West and thus we sailed against the sun into the crater; but we were compensated for that in the evening when we had the sun opposite the Crater wall when we sailed out.

Santorini from the air. The black line is the way we came in, coming from the West. The red line was the way out, turning to the East once outside. The green arrows indicate to o’Athinai and Thira.

Our approach started at 07.00 when we arrived at the South West entrance of the ring shaped crater top. Basically the whole place is just a volcano top rising steeply from the sea bottom with a few gaps on the West side for ships to sail in and out. The Volcano inner cone is still in the middle and everybody has to sail around it.  And that is what we did. As soon as the ship entered the Volcano, the anchor party went forward. Made up of the Deck storekeeper, who operates the anchor winch, a sailor who acts as communications man between the officer (who is on a platform) and the store keeper and in this case also my good self as the officer concerned was the cadet.  (There has to be a license forward for this evolution)

Today we only had a wind force 4 blowing and that was already enough to keep the ship laying behind a stretched chain all day long.

On the Oosterdam we have currently two deck cadets who are on their last weeks of training and who will get their 3/0 license in August. Enough experience gained in the last year to be able to benefit from a crash course in anchoring and docking by yours truly. All the water between the crater cone and the crater wall is deep, very deep water. Way too deep for anchoring; only very close to the shore there are some options but then only for smaller ships; and the best spaces have been taken up by the ferries that service the local communities. But there is one shallow patch, which we call “The hump”, where the water is about 30 meters deep and we can nicely lay an anchor with a lot of chain over the ground to keep the ship in place and prevent it from dragging. And dragging can easily happen here when the Etesian winds are blowing full pelt. The anchorage can only take one ship and if there are more, then the rest of the visitors have to drift and stay on the engines.

 Santorini on a busy day. The biggest ship gets the anchorage and the smaller ships have to drift. The very small ships (here the Ocean Majesty) can go on the mooring buoys. The speeding boats are the local tenders who ferry the guests to and from.

But we were the only ship today. Hurrah. I hope that the guests realized how lucky they were. No holdups at the cable car, no waiting times for the donkeys, etc. etc. There is not much Holland America can do about not being the only ship or not as the harbor master simply allows as many ships in as the local tender service can handle. We are not allowed to run our own tender service here. The whole happening is run by a local union or boatmen association. Nothing to complain about as they run a very efficient and effective service; to the great delight of our own sailors who otherwise have to run the ships tender service all day. When there are more ships in, Holland America ships first stop at Athinai in the South East to land the tours. There is a ferry dock there with sufficient room for the tour buses and that takes a good deal of pressure of the operation. The guests are then later dropped off at the Cable Car stop at the top. Today we where the only ship and that made this exercise unnecessary.

This is the way we like it. The anchor on top of the hump and the anchor chain nicely paid out in line with the wind. Maximum holding power.

Then on orders of the captain, the cadet signaled the anchor to be dropped in stages. Every time one length (15 fathoms, 27 meter or about 90 feet) at the same time the ship moved sideways so the chain was paid out nicely over the holding ground. We ended up with 5 lengths in the water and about 4 + the anchor on the sea bottom. What is there to learn for a cadet? Communication; in such a way that the captain on the bridge can visualize what the anchor is doing and where the anchor chain is leading (direction) and how hard the ship is pulling at the chain (weight or strain at the chain) Good communication makes a perfect maneuver and thus a perfect anchoring possible.

The cadet did really well and the chain went exactly over the ground as the captain had attended. I could limit myself to ensuring that “in all the excitement” the cadet followed all the protocols. At 18.00 hrs. we sailed out and the sun with bathed the white houses of Thira on top of the Volcano wall in a golden glow. A perfect ending of a perfect day.

Tomorrow we are in Rhodos for a full day and the weather gurus have promised us a sweltering day with little wind. 92oF / 33oC and no clouds. A good day for me, as apart from being forward with the cadets, I have tender driver proficiency assessments with the sailors.

Santorini. The houses on the top of the mountain basking in the evening sun light.

Stromboli was not very active and the guests did not miss much. I also do not think that many guests were up and about as it was just off midnight and we had one hour forward to get onto “Greek time”. The next item of interest was Messina Straits which happened shortly after 05.00 hrs. in the morning. So it was a short night for the captain, from after departure, with an hour forward, and being up and about by 04.00 hrs. for the Messina approach.

Due to the tight schedule for reaching Santorini, the passage had to be early in the morning and it was thus only for the real brave that the scenery unfolded. When we were racing through, the sun just started to lighten up the Sicilian side of the Strait and it showed a clear sky day again. By 08.00 hrs. it was already warm on deck as we had following winds and that made it nearly wind still on the ship.

This picture show the amount of traffic as observed over an certain time period. You can clearly see the trade routes which all use Messina Straits to get from A to B. We nowadays have these overviews as each ship has a AIS transponder which everybody can track.  (Thank you Marinevesseltraffic.com)

Messina Straits is a fairly narrow passage between the island of Sicily and the Italian mainland which is called Calabria in this area. All the shipping which comes from the region of the North Mediterranean from the south of France, curving over to all the North Italian ports, use this Strait to get to the rest of the Mediterranean or to the Suez Canal. (And back of course). Because it is fairly narrow, a Vessel Traffic Scheme has been introduced to keep the two flows apart. But due to the extensive ferry traffic to and from the island of Sicily this was not enough and pilotage has been compulsory for a long long time. On top of that it can be full of fishing boats which are all coming out at sunrise and then fish while floating with the tide. Thus with a south going tide we know that they are south of Messina and with a north going tide they are floating towards the north of Messina. But wherever they are, they tend to be in the way. That is part of the fun when going through. Although the Mediterranean is an inland sea, it is not completely tide less and there is always a difference in the amount of water North of the Sicily and to the South and that creates a considerable flow through the passage.

The Vessel Traffic Separation Scheme which also shows the Ferry routes. (Thank you Italian Government)

Because the pilotage is such a short distance and because there are so many ships to serve, the Messina Pilots are always in a hurry. Where in the rest of the world, pilot boats want you to slow down to 5 or 6 knots and create a lot of fuss of making a good lee; here they come racing alongside while the ship is going at a speed of anything between 14 and 18 knots. I always found that it was in a way easier for a pilot boat to come alongside with a high speed than with a slow speed. With high speed, the ship creates its own wind that flows along the hull and the ships bow wave creates quite a nice flat area behind it for the pilot boat to sit in. It is very, very seldom that a ship has to make a lee for the Messina pilot to come on board. The speed of the ship normally takes care of it.

One of the newer pilot boats at Messina. As you can see, it is going full speed and that is also the way they come alongside the ship for the pilot transfer. Quite un-nerving if you are not used to it. (Unknown photographer on the internet, but thank you)

Then the pilot runs to the bridge, asks for the course and gets going. His main job is to figure out what the ferries are doing. When they are leaving and when they make their crossing. But as the captains of the ferries all belong to the same brotherhood it all works out fine. Normally a pilot goes through a whole Master / Pilot information exchange about what sort of maneuvering capacity the ship has, how fast or how slow it can go, etc.etc.

Everything a navigator needs to know to be comfortable before he or she can handle the ship. Nothing of that here in Messina.

It is Full-Ahead maneuvering speed and there we go. The secret of only needing minimal information lays in the speed. Even the most cumbersome tanker or bulk carrier steers quite well when it is doing 12 or 14 knots. So the pilot can change course and that is all HE needs.

(I have not come across a female Messina pilot yet)  30 minutes later and he is off the ship again, having been yelling for the last 5 minutes to an approaching ship about when he was going to be there.

The remainder of the day we sailed eastwards towards Santorini in nicely open waters and where we will arrive around 08.00 tomorrow morning. Approach will start a lot earlier as the ship has to sail into the Volcano crater, what Santorini basically is. It will be an early one for me as I am going to teach the cadets how to drop the anchor at the right time, the right place and in the right way. The ones we have on board at the moment are on their final days of their cadet year and in the near future they will come back as 3^rd officers. ……………. And then they have to do it by themselves. So a bit of pre-input from somebody with 39 years of experience at sea, might not be a bad idea.

Weather for Santorini:  Sunny 28oC / 82oF and a moderate breeze over open waters. It is going to be warm, but the guests should be happy as we are (supposedly) the only ship in port.

Today the weather was even sunnier than two days ago; Vesuvius loomed crystal clear over us. I think the gentle breeze was just enough to keep any haze away which normally develops here if it is a real warm day. We have a regular port call so the good ship Oosterdam was docked at 07.00 hrs. in the morning and will sail at 18.00 hrs. today. Provided that everybody is back on board.

Vesuvius, well known Volcano from Pompeii and Herculaem Fame. As seen from the aft of the Oosterdam.

If that is going to happen, I do not know with the large number of family’s that we have on board. Sometimes comprising of three generations, normally this means that we have more independents going ashore and then there is a heightened chance some will get delayed. Sometimes because little Johnny got back on the Big Red Bus (*) and it can even be that they lose Granddad somewhere (*) then there can be delays as the whole family is stuck at the police station because they lost a cell phone or worse. (*) I have held up the ship for both of these occurrences in the grey mists of time. Granddad’s case was funny though, as after a domestic with his wife, he walked away and was not in a hurry to be found… when he finally came back, there was another domestic………………….. )

We docked in the same position as 2 days ago. Swung on arrival and docked nose out.

A captain looks at a cruise completely differently than a guest for which each port is going to be an adventure of a life time. Because we always have to think about a plan B, in case something happens, and the “cruise brochure plan” does not work out as planned.

So this is what the average captain thinks about all the coming ports during this cruise:

Civitavecchia……………………. Wind or no wind………… squalls are dangerous here…….. More ropes ashore

Naples……………………… are there ferry’s in the way or can I shoot straight in?

Santorini……………….. Are we the only ship……………….. YES………… so we can anchor, hurrah

Good for the ship and good for the guests, no tourist jams at the cable car.

Rhodos………….. if the Etesian winds are blowing, hopefully, straight north to south in line with the dock.

Iraklion…………………… Please no wind on arrival, we have to make a 90o turn.

Piraeus…………………. Does port control have its act together about the traffic so we can adjust correctly

Nafplion………………… Nice and calm seas please for our tender service

Argostoli……………….. See Rhodos

Kerkira …………………… Hopefully we will have the dock close to the city

Kotor…………………….. We are the only ship, so we will dock; now we need sunshine to make it perfect.

Venice (noon arrival) ………………..   No Six pack Navigators in the Laguna please……………………………..

If there is a lot of sunshine in the area and on the Balkan, then the Mediterranean south of Greece gets very wind. A high pressure system builds up in the Balkan and then the Etesian winds start blowing. Therefore most docks are constructed north to south so the wind only pushes the bow or the stern but does not let the ship drift sideways. But the wind is not always straight north/south and then you need a lot of engine power to compensate.

We will sail south from Naples at 18.00 hrs. Around 20.00 hrs. we will see Capri and then for those who are still awake by midnight, Stromboli might put on a little show. From there we race on to Messina where will embark the pilot around 05.00 hrs.  A quick zig-zag trough the Straits of Messina, pilot off, and then pedal to the Metal to Santorini. This is a tight run to get to Santorini on time and the grey area is always: how much delay, if any, will there be at Messina Straits due to opposing traffic or slow traffic ahead of us.

But we will have another sunny day tomorrow, with gentle North Westerly winds and that should result in no wind at all on deck.