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Ocean Liner History and Stories from the Sea, Past and Present. With an In Depth focus on Holland America Line

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19 March 2018; At Sea, on ms Eurodam.

And so I made the transition from Veendam to Eurodam. The Eurodam is a Sunday ship and thus I had to spend a night in a hotel in Ft. Lauderdale and then return to the port to find the Eurodam and the Koningsdam waiting. (…………….and two Celebrity ships and two Princess ships and the Allure of the Seas = busy day in port)

The route for this cruise. As the weather is so nice, the captain is taking advantage of the shorter route North of the Bahamas, instead of going against the current via the Old Bahama Channel, just north of Cuba.

The ms Eurodam is currently on 7 day cruises and alternating between two different routes. This week we are doing Ft. Lauderdale – Amber Cove – San Juan – Philipsburg – Half Moon Cay – Ft. Lauderdale. Then next cruise we make a grand circle around Cuba, calling at ports North, East, South and West of the Island. It will be interesting to see how San Juan has recovered from the Hurricane devastation of last year as I have not been there since.

The good ship Eurodam is in the capable hands of Captain Eric Barhorst who is one of our newer captains but who has been with Holland America for a long time already. As a matter of fact he has never sailed for another company ever since he was a cadet. In the 90’s Holland America had a period where we had to get captains in from outside as we did not have enough Captain’s licenses among the senior officers. Pilotage in both England and Holland was pulling greatly and any officers with plans to start a family, might not be eager to leave Holland America but were certainly eager to spend more time at home. And thus we had a number of captains and staff captains who came in sideways and as they liked the company, they stayed. Now my generation is slowly leaving the fleet, the next wave is coming up, and now all the senior officers are coming up through the ranks again.

The Eurodam is one of the two ships of the Signature Class, the Nieuw Amsterdam being the other one. They are both an evolution of the Vista Class ships, sharing the same hull but with a slightly different layout and an extra restaurant, the Tamarind, on the top. That novelty was first explored with the Arcadia or the 5th. Vista Class which was handed over to P&O as it was decided that a 4 ship class worked better.  For that ship they had a bit more time to review its layout and when the guests kept asking for more food options (It is amazing that similar company’s get similar requests/demands/complaints) and they put their own specialty restaurant there the Sindhu. P&O is English and they have a very close historical connection with India, hence Indian food. As we have a very close historical connection with Indonesia, Holland America put an Indonesian, Thai, Japanese fusion restaurant there and we call it the Tamarind.

A tamarind Tree. At least that is what the internet says. If it is not, then I lie in ommission as I can barely differentiate between an Oak tree and a Fir tree.

A Tamarind is a tree, of African origin, which is kept as an ornamental tree but its fruits / nuts, can also deliver a brown paste which is used to season Indonesian and Thai cooking. When I grew up in the Netherlands my neighborhood was full of people who had worked in the Dutch East Indies and had left Indonesia when it became independent; the stories were always about gathering in the evening under the Tamarind tree of the village to exchange the latest news. The Tamarind tree is quite dense and provides a good shade.

To get to Amber Cove, we are sailing above the Bahamas Bank today and then this evening we pass the Turks and Caicos Islands and then cross the end of the Old Bahama Channel to arrive at Amber Cove tomorrow morning at 07.00 hrs. at the pilot station. Amber Cove is located on the north side of the Dominican Republic in a sort of sheltered bay. I say sort of as it depends a little bit on the angle of the North Atlantic waves coming in. At the moment, the ocean outside is a smooth as a mirror as there is hardly any wind and that ocean would have been flat if it was not for the ever present swell but even that is low.

Weather Forecast for tomorrow: warm to very warm. 88oF/31oC. The Trade Wind is blowing at its regular strength but there are hills in the way and that will reduce the breeze in the port considerably. A lot of guests were talking about going snorkeling and that might be  a good idea. The temperature of the water is expected to be 25oC or 77oF.

11 March 2018; Gustavia, St. Barthelemy, France.

The challenge with French islands in the Caribbean is, that they are often more French than the home country itself. And as a company you cannot do very much about it. We were here today on a Sunday and most shops were closed. If I was a shopkeeper and knew there were 1200 eager shoppers coming ashore, I would be open. But no it is Sunday, so we go for Sunday lunch.  We had scheduled ourselves and had received confirmation that we could send the first tender ashore for the authorities to clear the ship at 07.00 hrs. We think that they suddenly realized that it was a Sunday and the agent advised to tender before 07.45 which is………….. very close to 08.00 hrs. The captain did not accept that, called, and reminded the agent ashore that we had confirmation for 07.00 hrs. Then it “c’est bon” again.

When we came to the anchorage there was a yacht on our preferred spot, luckily it was a small one and that gave us enough space to anchor behind it. But we could have been a lot closer to the port if that space had been empty, saving the guests a bit of a wobbly tender ride. But the anchorage is open to everybody, first come, first served; and thus the yacht had picked the best place sometime before.  It is a free for all to pick your spot, except of course if your name is Abramovich, then you get the best spot. But because we had to stay further out, so the ship could float clear of any danger, it became a long tender ride to the tender dock all the way inside. Because our guests are asking for more variation, the company is forced to mix these sorts of ports into the equation and thus to offer a mixture of new and old, known and unknown. The coming ports we will dock and that should solve all the going ashore issues.

From the Electronic chart. The yacht was in position A, and if she had not been there then we could have moved the anchor so much more forward, that we just would have been in the lee of the rocks (in yellow) and who have missed the swell of the ocean rolling in, what now affected our tender service.

When we go at anchor the main discussion is, apart from where we drop the hook, how much chain will have to go down to anchor safely. Safely means the anchor will not drag and the ship stays nicely in position. A lot of people think that it is the anchor which keeps the ship in place. This is not the case, it is the weight of the anchor chain and the friction it causes with the sea bottom that holds the ship. The ships anchor is only the anchoring point of the chain so it can lie on the bottom of the sea. If we would just use the anchor and no extra chain for weight, we would constantly drift away as the anchor would simply break out of the ground with every movement of the ship.

Normally the rule of thumb is the depth of the water in chain length and then two lengths extra. We speak about anchor lengths of chain. Each length is 15 Fathoms or 27 meters or 90 feet.  So if the water is 10 meters deep, we have to put at least 3 lengths of chain down. Then there is the distance from the sea bottom to the anchor winch which is normally also about a length with the end result of 3 lengths under the water and the 4th. length coming up out of the water to the anchor winch on deck. Now when the wind is blowing, we always add one extra length. If the holding ground is not good, then we add another one. If the holding ground is rock, then the chain will easily move over the rocky sea bottom and has not much grip. In Half Moon Cay (where we are on Friday) we have very dense sand with an enormous grip and there we could probably anchor with just three lengths of chain.

Today we went to six on deck, which meant the 5th length was just under water and in 20 meters of depth we had 4 lengths with the anchor on the sea bottom. 5 lengths would have sufficed here but we had a strong Trade Wind blowing so we added one length of chain for insurance. That meant we had a total weight of 35000 pounds (17000 kg.) of steel lying on the sea bottom to keep us there. I think nobody would be amazed to realize that the ship also stayed there.

We stayed until 15.00 hrs. and then set sail to Castries, St. Lucia where we will arrive at 08.00 hrs. Castries is located in a sheltered bay with two cruise ship docks and a downtown cargo dock where cruise ships also go when the port has a busy day. And it looks like a busy day as we are together with the Aida Diva, the Wind Surf and the Star Breeze.

Weather, mainly overcast 29oC / 85o F and a strong Trade Wind breeze.

In yesterdays blog I mentioned that departing St. Thomas in the evening, gives a very nice view. Here my amateuristic attempt to capture Charlotte Amalie sail-a-way.

09 March 2018; At Sea, Day 2.

It always gives a captain  a wonderful feeling if the weather is following the weather forecast. It makes you look less of a fool than they guests might otherwise think that you might be. Although we do not mind to be wrong if we predict bad weather and the bad weather does not happen but an accurate prediction during the Voice from the Bridge followed by Mother Nature confirming it can make your day. And now we have the weather doing exactly that. We had the wind from the wrong side yesterday but it kept the clouds away and brought a sunny day and the prediction was that the wind would veer to the north and then to the east. This would happen because of a frontal system coming through that was being pushed away by the Trade Winds. Frontal systems bring rain and this morning between 0900 and 1100 hrs. we had thunder and lightning and rain showers and then the wind indeed changed to the east and all was well in the world. By early afternoon we were back to partly sunny or partly cloudy, whatever you make of it. I think it was partly cloudy as there was still more cloud and blue sky but the sun was out again.

Captain Pieter Bant.

I do not really have to worry about the weather, although I do as it comes natural after so many years at sea, as the real worrying should be done by the ship’s captain. And we have a new one. Captain Colm Ryan went on leave in Ft. Lauderdale and his replacement is Captain Pieter Bant.

He is one of our newer captains but I have known him for a very long time. He will remain on the Veendam for a regular contract and then Captain Ryan will return. Captain Bant replaces Captain Noel O’Drisscoll who is transferring to the Koningsdam as he wanted to have a go at all the new gadgets, which the Veendam does not have.

We have a whole musical “captain” chair happening again due to the introduction of the Nieuw Statendam in December, the retirement of Captain Peter Bos and the passing away of a Seabourn Captain, which caused one of our captains to go over and to take his place.

Although we like a steady Trade Wind in this area as it brings predictable and nice weather; the wrong wind yesterday had one advantage, it gave less adverse current and no adverse wind. Normally we have to push against the Antilles current here (A sort of Northerly brother of the Gulf Stream) but this current gets a lot of its momentum from the Trade Winds which help with pushing the surface water to the North West at a faster rate. When the wind stops, then that momentum reduces somewhat and we notice that in the speed the ship makes. No adverse winds and less opposing currents can quickly give 0.5 knot less friction and 0.5 knots in 24 hrs. is 12 miles and that is with our average speed about 50 minutes of free sailing. The Chief Engineer was smiling today as it helps to stay inside the fuel budget.

Sailing through the Virgin Passage about 2 am. in the morning.

This evening we make landfall at Puerto Rico and then tonight we will sail through the Virgin Passage which separates Puerto Rico from the US Virgin Islands. From there we will approach Charlotte Amalie from the West as it is located on the south side of the island in a natural bay. Tomorrow there are only two ships in port and both ships have been assigned to dock at WICO, which is the main pier and the original port of St. Thomas. There is a 2nd cruise berth location in Crown Bay which is used when “downtown” read the WICO pier is full. (West Indian Company) Holland America used to dock there a lot but lately they are sending the very big ones there as it is easier from them to get in and out of.

This was WICO pier in the old days before the cruise ships came and the pier was upgraded step by step. Tomorrow we will see what has changed.

The other ship is the Silver Wind which is much smaller than the Veendam and as the dock can take 3 mega liners, we will have plenty of room to park ourselves somewhere nice. Where ever we park, there will be plenty of shops to choose from as the whole Havensight area is one big shopping Mall. For the guests it might be positive to have only two smaller ships in as there seems to be a correlation between the height of the price and the number of cruise passengers ashore.  I might have a quick look to see if they have re-opened the book shop on the pier as it was closed last year, although book prices do not go up and down with the number of ships coming in.  We will be at the pilot station at 07.00 hrs. and should be docked at Havensight 45 minutes later.

Weather for Tomorrow: Partly Cloudy with a regular Trade Wind Breeze and 27oC / 80oF. It should be a good and normal Caribbean day.

08 March 2018; At Sea , Day 1.

We are now on our way to our first port of call Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas US Virgin islands. To get there takes 36 hrs. at full speed so we have scheduled two days at sea, otherwise you would arrive around 8 pm in the evening. Most of our guests prefer to be in dinner at that time. To get around this schedule, many cruises call at San Juan first and then go St. Thomas. If you do that, then you can be docked in San Juan by 14.00 hrs. and stay there to midnight and go to St. Thomas the next day. San Juan is a very nice city to spend an evening in. Why do we not do that? because San Juan has still not recovered from the devastation of the last Hurricane. Work has been done in and around the San Juan but parts of the island are still without electricity and even in San Juan there are still areas where traffic lights and other basic utilities are out of order. That complicates the tours and that makes night life not yet what it was before and what it is supposed to be. And we do not want to disappoint our guests. On our old schedule we were supposed to be there on March 12 but we will be in Antigua instead.

There are two ways to get to the upper Eastern part of the Caribbean from Ft. Lauderdale. Sailing above the Bahamian Islands, its sand banks and reefs or going under it.  Going north is about 40 miles shorter, going south, through the Old Bahama Channel, is more sheltered.  It is up to the captain to decide which route the ship will take. The word shelter is only important if there is a storm raging out there in the North Atlantic and you do not want to expose the guests to a roller coaster experience for two days.

Route A takes you North of the Banks, Route B, South of the Banks. Wouldn’t be handy to have a channel straight through Andros Island ?? (Thank you to whoever posted this beautiful photo on the internet)

When going north you leave the shelter of the Bahamian Islands around midnight after departure, and then you are exposed to the vagaries of what the North Atlantic can throw at you. Going south keeps you sheltered until late the first day at sea when you finally leave the last island (Great Inagua Island) behind.  This time the decision was not so difficult for the captain. Although it is horrible up north, near the Eastern USA Seaboard, it translates for us only in wind from the wrong direction and some scattered rain clouds. The swell that is running hardly affects the Veendam and thus the captain is taking the shorter route.

Even these rain clouds were of little concern; by the time the guests arrived on deck most were out of the way and we had glorious sunshine. Tonight the wind will turn to the East again and then we have the regular Caribbean weather back. Pending unforeseen circumstances, it looks that we will have a regular Caribbean cruise for the coming 10 days.

Scattered clouds are seen on the radar in yellow. The Veendam is in the blue ring, the white square is the Koningsdam sailing ahead of us and the green lines are indicating the 12 and 3 mile boundaries from the shore lines.

Picking up where I left off yesterday, the organization behind the scenes for our emergency drills. Our biggest challenge is to get everybody to the cabin in an emergency or to the lifeboat station, depending on what sort of emergency we are dealing with. The emphasis is on the word EVERBODY. 90% to 95% of the guests will march to the captain’s tune after one or more announcements. Our challenge is with those who might panic, those who do not believe that it is for real, or those who just plainly refuse to go. For that we have Sweep Teams. Sweep teams are groups of crew members who go through all the public areas, all the crew areas and all the cabins to get reluctant guests out and on the way. As humans can react differently under stressful circumstances we teach those crewmembers a few tricks to handle un-cooperative guests.  I like to help out here as I found out that it is easier for a captain to convince a crewmember that he /she is allowed to yell and raise his/her voice against a guest. We are not used to that as we are in the service industry and always try to make the guest as happy as possible.

Hand signals are an important part of communicating as we do not always speak the language of the guests.

I once saw a little Philipinna hairdresser, all 5.2 feet tall and 80 pounds of weight, take my lessons to heart and having a go, with all guns blazing, against a 300 pound 6 foot 8’ USCG inspector who was testing her knowledge.  He was really impressed and remarked that for a moment he felt as if he was confronting his wife in a bad mood.  The ship passed the inspection with flying colors, just on her actions alone.

Tomorrow we have our 2nd day at sea, with more sunshine and good weather while we sail closer and closer towards our first port of call Charlotte Amalie. Tonight the clocks will go an hour forward as we move into the local time zone but everybody can sleep in if they want to as it is a sea day.

07 March 2018; Fort Lauderdale, USA.

And indeed the HAL parade took place; Veendam followed by Koningsdam, followed by tankers and other cargo ships. We all went to our regular docks and by 07.00 hrs. everything was in full swing. Another nice thing about having only two cruise ships in port is that the immigration procedures go so much faster. There are more CBP officers available to process each ship as the number of them is finite and 16 divided by 2 gives better processing power than 16 divided by 4 ships. As a result I could walk off and back on again just after 09.30 to get my weekly stamp. The authorities are always very eager to see me and to make sure, if I am still l there and if I still have a valid visa. So I did my little bit to help to achieve the zero count which means that everybody has disembarked or in case of the CVG guests (Collector Voyages Guests) have paraded off and back on again. (If they did not go ashore of course)

The view in Fort Lauderdale is at dock 21 not really exciting. They have demolished the old terminal 24 and 25  and a new one is under construction. For those whose memory gos back a long time, in the 80’s there used to be a nice restaurant at the end of this pier called Bert and Jack.

I just realized by talking to a guest today that there are a lot of guests out there who do not have much of an idea of what goes on during the Passenger Boat Drill just before departure. They are told to wait until the 2nd alarm goes, then go to the cabin, wait for the 3rd alarm and then go to deck. And there wait for further developments.  But what goes on behind the scenes is another matter and a lot goes on behind the scenes. We have three alarms, to make it easier for everybody in case of an emergency.  The law requires that everybody gets into the lifeboat and with the lifeboat into the water in 30 minutes.  That is not easy to do with a full house and with a complement of which not everybody is as agile as they once used to be.

So we have the first Alarm, the well-known fire alarm, which calls the fire teams and a number of support teams to stations. That normally solves all problems in a real emergency. Then we have a second alarm: the Crew Alert Alarm. Now all crew will start executing a function as things might be a bit more serious than just a local fire, or there is something else going on. We can use this alarm also for a search of suspicious packages or if somebody is missing. With this alarm we normally ask guests to go to their cabin and in that way all families are together or reunited again. In the mean time we have sweep teams go through the ship to find stragglers or confused people and on the outside decks the boats and rafts are prepared……. In case of.

Now if the captain then thinks that it might become very seriously, he sounds the General Emergency Alarm (the famous 7 short and 1 long blast alarm) and everybody who does not have a function, that are all the guests and some crew go to their lifeboat stations. If the lifeboats would have to go down now, then they are already ready and then we can comply with the 30 minute rule to get everybody away from the ship.

To support this organization, we have with Holland America three groups on the ships:

Command & Control: runs the Fire teams, the boat and raft lowering teams, Medical, the Evacuation Teams that control the whole operation. Captain is in charge.

Technical Control: The whole engine team to support the fire teams and the Chief Engineer takes the lead when there is a technical fire.

Muster Control: this is the Hotel Director with the front office staff and they lead the whole movement of all guests and crew during the various alarm stages. They also control the various groups that support this, such as Passenger Area sweep team, Crew Area sweep team, Passenger Assist Team (cabin stewards), Club Hal, Deck Clearing Team, Stairway Guides, Document Securing Team (collecting passports and money) and the Emergency Elevator Operator Team. They also monitor the full mustering of everybody. That is now done by I Pod scanning devices and the results can be followed on the computer.

This screen shows all the counts coming in.  In this case for crew liferafts but for the lifeboats it works the same. Green is complete and red still in progress. The round pie to the right, blue what is in and red what is still outstanding

With all the teams deployed, it is not possible for any guest or crew to go missing or to be left behind and everybody will survive an emergency. We drill this constantly and it is one of my focus points when I am on board to observe and test these groups so that they live up to the standards. I am not an auditor, because yes I point out omissions but I also solve them by giving guidance, training and having them go through the routine one more time. Normally it runs like clockwork, as it should, but with 569 crew on board,…………….. there is always one.

We are now going on an Eastern Caribbean Cruise, calling at St. Thomas, St. Barthelome, St. Lucia – Antigua – St. Croix –Half Moon Cay and then back to Ft. Lauderdale.

Weather: a bit of a mixed bag. At the moment the wind is blowing from the wrong direction due to this weather front up north. That will pull away and then the regular Trade Wind weather has to re-establish itself. We will see that on our 2nd sea day when we will have rain and the wind will go from south west, to north to north east and then to east again. So by the time we arrive in St. Thomas the weather should be back to what it is supposed to be.

06 March 2018; At Sea, sailing around Cuba (Again)

We sailed from Key West to Havana and from there to Cienfuegos. Grand Cayman lies directly below Cienfuegos and thus we sail the same way home as we came down the Cuban Coast. The ships that were with us yesterday went another way as they will return to Florida for a Saturday or Sunday turn over. We are currently a Wednesday ship and there are not many ships and companies who can do that. Most Americans only have a short vacation and thus the cruise has to fit in a Sunday to Sunday or a Saturday to Saturday setup.  We sail with guests who have more time (and/ or money) or who are retired and then it does not matter what day we leave or arrive. We have even quite a few on board who will stay on for the coming 10 day cruise. Be in port on a midweek day is at least nice for using the airport. Ft. Lauderdale airport is a bit on the small side to handle 10,000 or so guests who might arrive on a weekend day but the 4000 coming off the Koningsdam and the Veendam tomorrow it can easily deal with. And it will not even be that many because some guests came by car, live nearby or fly from Miami, 45 minutes away with the shuttle.

The Veendam sailing around the west poing of Cuba Cabo San Antonio again, staying nicely at the right side of the VTS or our highway at sea.  At 07.30 we were exactly at the most western point of Cuba.

So yes we are in with the Koningsdam and nobody else. The locals will have to be content with a HAL-only ship parade. Veendam is expected at the pilot station at 05.00 hrs. followed by the Koningsdam at 05.15 hrs. At least according to the harbor master of Port Everglades. Although that might change because why would we arrive so early if there are no other cruise ships coming in.? I will find out later tonight what the Captain’s plans are.  Nothing happens anyway until 07.00 hrs. when the longshoremen start with the luggage.

While we are still happily completing the winter season cruises, the company is already in full swing for the summer. More and also Larger ships are going to Alaska, bringing more guests and thus we have to keep working on our own infrastructure. If you make a Holland America cruise you can do that on a HAL ship, then go inland with a HAL bus or a HAL train and while doing so you will stay in a HAL hotel. Although the company does not brand everything HAL, the hotels have their own name. Overland tours into the Great Land are becoming more and more popular so we continue to expand the hotels.

This is an artist impression of the centre of the Chalet Park as planned in 2015. There are no photos yet of the new section, as building is  still in progress.

At the moment the focus is on the McKinley Chalet Resort. It was greatly expanded in 2015 when it went from a pure chalet park location to a more inclusive Resort with everything that comes with it. Now with even more Hal guests arriving they are expanding with more upgrade accommodation. A wing with 55 Junior Suites is being added to offer more choice. So if you now book a balcony cabin on the ship, you can keep a balcony cabin while you are inland. At least when you go to McKinley. At sea you can wake up with dolphins outside your balcony and here you can wake up with a moose outside. I have never been there, as although the company offers employees the option of overland tours they are nearly always sold out, as they are so popular, or we are stuck with the CPB ruling that we have to leave the country straight away after the end of our sailing contract. So I have to wait until I retire and then might have a go at it.

Tomorrow is the end of the voyage but quite a few of the guests are staying on. So will I. I will do one more cruise on the Veendam and then transfer to the ms Eurodam. At least that is the plan but until now not much has gone to plan in the current function as Fleet Support Master I never know what the challenges tomorrow might be.

We are still under the influence of some nasty weather up north and tomorrow we can expect a band of rain and wind to come over Florida around noontime. How much we will get, remains to be seen, a lot of it might rain out over the northern part of the state. But the wind is expected to change to the south west and that is quite unusual.

A band of rain currently laying over the north of Florida and slowly coming down. (Photo courtesy: www.wsi.com)

02 March 2018: Havana, Cuba.

It is only short hop from sea buoy to sea buoy and thus the Veendam drifted around a little bit during the night and then made with great precision the exact pilot time of 06.15 in the morning. Getting into to port is a very short run, you hardly have time to speed up and then you have to put the brakes on again to make the turn to the cruise terminal on the western side of the harbor. The terminal is an original from the 1950’s and probably from even earlier, when the ships were not so large as nowadays and a regular size ocean liner would be about half the size of the Veendam.

Three terminals from the old days. The first one has been spruced up and listens to the beautiful name of Terminal Sierra Maestra San Franciso. (Sounds a lot better than Terminal B……) the 2nd cruise ship was the Berlin, sailing for the German market. she is a lot smaller and just fitted inside.

Thus we stuck out by about 30 meters, leaving the stern overhanging considerably and all the stern lines were running as spring lines thus leading forward. If we had had a strong North Easterly wind today we would have needed a tugboat to have kept the stern against the dock. The only other option would have been to have dropped the hook in the large inner harbor and have run a tender service or dock somewhere at a larger cargo terminal.  Tendering would not have been much fun as the water in the harbor has a very special fragrance and it is not one that you buy in little bottles.

A friendly guard in the maritime musem. She had family in Zeeland, the Netherlands and set me on course for the National Archives.

The ship is still gearing up for all my activities that I want to conduct here on board and while waiting for that I had time to run ashore. I had never been to Cuba nor has anybody else who has sailed for a long time with Holland America. From the good old days the port has three passenger terminals left over, two are in very bad state but the 3rd one has been nicely restored into a regular cruise terminal complete with an embarkation terminal, Money exchange and souvenir shops. Wages are not that high in Cuba so no lack of man & woman power and I have never seen so many Customs people in place, doing both the passport checks and the security scanning. Funny thing is, they scan you going out and going in, so you can not take anything dangerous ashore but you also cannot to take it back. And after having walked through the sealed off Customs area, the ship scans everybody one more time. I have seldom felt so safe in my life. It almost looked like Charles de Gaulle Airport in Paris.

Downtown is not far, as a matter of fact the nose of the ship is in down town. It just depends which way you want to go. The whole old city is right in front of the terminal but the main museum area is a little bit to the west, closer to the sea and that was also my first focus point. I was heading for the Maritime Museum housed in a fort/ castle and called Castillo de la Real Fuerza. It was originally built to protect the harbor but then they realized that is was too far inland, so they had to build another one and made this one the Governors Mainson. (In the days that Cuba was Spanish.)

Three forms of transport in Havana. Those yellow eggs to the left are scooters which can take two passengers all over town. In the center the old American cars and a green Lada and to the far right, Horse and Cart sightseeing tours.

I wanted to find out if the museum had anything about Holland America but the collection is mainly focused on the days of the Gold and silver export from South America. A very nice lady told me that all the paperwork was most likely held at the National Library, just around the corner, so that was the next stop.  This was bit more complicated as what I wanted was a bit out of the routine of the Security (All ladies, in both Musea) but eventually a young lady on high heels introduced herself as the Curator of the uncatalogued collections and explained that she thought there were photos from the port from before (before meaning here before the revolution) but she had no idea what and she could not get at it. What a pity, I wished that all museum curators looked like her; then the reading rooms would be a lot fuller than they are now.

It gave me a good feeling, this natural way of trying to help. So I like the people here, friendly and warm; and Ladies if you go ashore here, keep your husbands on a short leash as the ladies are beautiful, there are lots of them, the dresses or jeans are very tight and it all jiggles in the right places. Even in the museums. Luckily I am happily married.

Modern Havana. High rises just off the coast line. The area with the tourists hotels starts right behind it.

Next stop, after a walk through the Old City, was Central Square, looking for the hop on hop off Bus. They have one but it is operated by a governmental travel agency and thus it has not the familiar red colors but its blue and it has a ticket stand inside the Bus. Then for the next 105 minutes (At $ 10 a person) the bus went all around the west side of the city. That is everything west of the old town. Apart from the main thru fare as you cannot get a big bus through the old streets but the route stayed away from the South East part leading towards the lower side of the inner harbor. Still it gave a very good impression of Havana. The wide boulevards which must have been very impressive in the old days, the run down Villa’s (although there is a lot of refurbishment and restauration going on) the communist new builds (some of them very colorful) the Colon Cemetery, very impressive if you are into that sort of thing and of course the Plaza de Revolution with a concrete pole in the middle, which you could see as a space rocket station if you did not know any better. A lot of guests took a tour around the city in one of the large number of old American cars, many of them convertibles and all in very good condition (at least on the outside), but I prefer  the open top bus as you sit higher and have a better overview.

This was the most suprising thing I saw. Right in downtown between the shops and restaurants a semi open air dress factory. The sales shop was right next door

My last stop was looking for 2nd hand book stores as they normally also have post cards and other stuff. I had not planned this but I had time, and my wife can tell you that I have a homing-radar for bookshops, I do not even look for them, I just find them. And here in Havana there are plenty. Lots of revolutionary stuff, but also lots of Stuff from “before”.  Nothing of my interest but one store had some very nice French historical editions from late 19th century and you can buy them but you cannot easily take them out of the country. The antiquarian explained that if I bought one of the older books, it might get confiscated in the terminal “for checking”. Even if it was a book about Napoleon.  He could have sold me the book and then have left me to deal with Customs but he was friendly and honest.  So I contributed some money as a thank you instead to a big red can with a picture of Che Guevara on it. No idea what it was for but it made the youngest daughter happy,  dressed in red skirt and necktie.

This is how Havana port looks like on the Radar / Electronic map. The ship is to scare and you see we overhang quite a bit.

The ms Veendam will stay until tomorrow morning 02.00 hrs. so the guests can enjoy the night life with all the live music in the restaurants, bars, and open squares. Then we will sail around Cuba heading to Cienfuegos on the Southside for the day after tomorrow. So tomorrow I will put a few things in the blog about Holland America History and Cuba.

 

01 March 2018; Key West, Florida, USA.

And thus I transferred ships yesterday; walking across the street from Pier 26 to Pier 21 and after safely negotiating around a speeding Park and Ride shuttle, I made it on board the ms Veendam. The Veendam is of course one of my old ships and has not changed very much inside since 2006 as it is too small to really incorporate the Music Walk in all its options.  That does not make the ship less popular it just means that the focus is much more on the destination than being a destination in itself. But the latter still appeals to guests as well as the Veendam had in the recent past a few guests who remained on board for nearly a year, making the Veendam their permanent home.  It can be a lot cheaper than a retirement home, but you need to have good insurance as we are not a retirement home, so there has to be a plan B for the case of.

Our 7 day cruise with focus on Cuba.

 

The Veendam is the ship that has been assigned to open up Cuba for the company and the ship has made a few calls there already. On some cruises it is just Havana but this cruise we are doing two ports, Havana where we stay until 2 am. the next morning and Cienfuegos, located on the south side of the island, where we anchor inside a large bay. Both ports are new to me and even after 39 years at sea I have still something to be excited about.

However we are calling at Key West first and that is today. We sailed shortly after 1700 hrs. and followed the coastline of Florida all the way along the keys. It has been a while since I saw the sun setting over Miami but last evening the skies were so clear that the guests had ample opportunity to take a photo of Skyscrapers bathing in the golden rays of a sun not obscured by clouds. Shortly after Miami the Florida Keys start and then it is hard to see very much. Plus we have to stay a considerable distance away from from them as most of the area is protected by a Conservation Order to ensure the fragile eco systems are not endangered.  The ship tries to stay as close as possible to the border line of these areas to avoid the edge of the Gulf Stream. We would not affect the areas anyway as we keep all over boards inside except water called permeate, from the filter plant we have on board. There grey and black water is cleaned back to potable water, although the health laws prohibit us from using it as such. Therefore we call it technical water and use it for cleaning the ship when needed. But at sea we make too much with all the guests on board and thus we are allowed to discharge this extra clean water anywhere 24 /7.

Our dock is really the breakwater/ outer pier of the Navy dock. By modifying the top end, it can now be used for large ships. The track shows that we swung on arrival at 07.15 hrs. and we did so as it was flooding and that way we could keep the flood on our starboard side and help us push towards the dock.

Key West has three piers, Mallory in downtown at Mallory square, the B pier opposite the White Hotel and the Navy Pier outside dock which is now permanently available to cruise ships as the Navy scaled down their operations here a number of years ago. We were the only ship in today but had to dock at the Navy pier which is the furthest out and it is even a long way to the gate. To alleviate that problem they run these little tsjook-tsjook trains to and from the ship. Why can we not dock in downtown?, because we are leaving too close to sun-set. Watching sunset from Mallory square, surrounded by buskers and all sorts of other artists, is a time honored tradition and the locals and non –locals ferociously protect that right. With three ships in you can get a number of exemptions, so you can stay past dark but they are not easy to obtain and the complaints are loud and clear when one is given. So we happily docked at the Navy pier and the small trains shuttled everybody out of the port.

Havana is located just at the other side of the Straits of Florida and when we sail out, we have to kill some time by going slow in the Gulf Stream. That will bring us to Havana pilot station by 06.15 and then we should be docked by 07.00 hrs.

Weather for tomorrow: 30oC / 86oF and very little wind. It will be a warm day.

25 Feb. 2018; Puerto Limon, Costa Rica.

Things are always exciting when you mess around with boats. The Panama Canal does it as well and thus we arrived an hour late at the Colon 2000 terminal and found a large line waiting to reboard the ship. But it was not everybody and then it turned out that for a number of reasons some of the tour buses came back quite late. The last tour guest was back with more than an hour’s delay. And that pushed the departure time of the Zuiderdam back considerably. So it was not until well past 21.30 that we departed, luckily with all the guests on board. We did not lose anybody in the interior of Panama.

As mentioned yesterday it is a tight schedule between Colon and Puerto Limon, even with an hour back, and on departure we already knew we could not make up the time. When possible the Captain tries to get out well before 8 pm. in Colon as every minute really counts. And then we just make it by the skin of our teeth to Puerto Limon. So we knew we did not stand a chance this time. Thus Plan a: Pedal to the Metal and Plan a-extra: stay longer. We might be docked one hour late so we will at least sail an hour late. Late arrival will normally have a knock-on effect on the tour departures and thus we might have to wait even longer.

And that turned out to be true. We had the gangway out just after 08.15 hrs. having arrived 1.5 hrs. late. About the same amount of time as we lost in Panama. To complicate matters, now our buses were not leaving as early as planned and that gave congestion at the tourist stops as the now the coaches of the Mein Schiff 6 were leaving at the same time. Mein Schiff 6 (a sister of Mein Schiff 5 and 4) is a bit bigger than the Zuiderdam and has a lot more guests on board. And thus generates a lot more tour guests. As a result the EXC manager already predicted that some buses might not be back until 5 pm. and thus the Captain decided to stay at least that one hour longer. And if the tours are not back then we will wait even longer. Next will be two sea days and that will give us enough lee way to make Fort Lauderdale on time. Important for the guests, as about 95% is going home (we have some back to back cruisers) and important for me, as I will be transferring ships and will move to the Veendam. And thus the blog is going to Cuba.

A wet and rainy pier between two apartment buildings both with a blue hull. In Puerto Limon it always seems to rain during our drills. Once the drills were over, we had glorious sunshine.

With the end of my time nearing here on board, I spent the morning assessing the General Drill, which each ship holds every 4 weeks, with smaller drills during the other week. I have been training, pushing and harassing the crew to get them at their peak performance for the coming audit and today was a sort of exam day. First the fire drill which I can do by myself and then all the officers fanned out all over the ship, to observe various areas, as by the 2nd alarm we have all 800 crew on the move. And that continues until we have all the boats on the sea side safely into the water.  I was playing a nasty guest who did not want to go to the lifeboat station. We do not have them very often but sometimes it happens among those who are on board for multiple cruises and who are getting fed up to go to the boat drill each time a cruise starts.

We have search teams who comb out all the public rooms and cabins and when they find a guest, that person is urged to go to the cabin or to the Boat station. If that does not work, then somebody from the Front desk will show up to use all the people skills available to get some movement. If that does not work, then security show up and they normally do get some movement. At all times our objective is to ensure that we will save ALL souls if the ship goes down, even the nasty ones. So the nasty-me got saved as well although it did give all involved a good amount of stress to accomplish it.

But you do not make world champions without pain, without frustration and without disappointments and Holland America strives to be world champions in lifeboat drills. Although we hope we will never get a medal for it due to a real occurrence. And thus we train, train, test, exam, review and train again. Until the crew is dreaming about life jackets at night.

Tomorrow we start the first of two sea days and then we are in Fort Lauderdale. The weather is supposed to give us not too much wind and a chance of showers. So just have to see what we will get.

24 Feb. 2018; Panama Canal in and out and Colon.

The weather gods were with us and we arrived to observe a nice dry Panama day. The schedule worked out this time and the ms Zuiderdam moved into the first lock chamber at 06.30, just when the sun was rising. And that made it not too hot for standing outside on deck and watching the proceedings. By 08.00 we were out and moved to the anchorage to land over a 1000 guests on the land tour. We accomplished that by 11.00 hrs. and then we had to wait to go back into the schedule again.

Sometimes guests ask me how often I have been in the Panama Canal, with these sort of dive in – dive out cruises you quickly build up a good number and I have now passed the 100 times in the Canal, although not 100 crossings yet.

From then on it was less smooth. Some big boys, panamax ships had to come through and they go slow as there is hardly any water flow around these ships as they are so tight to the lock walls at both sides. I think the original designers back in 1900 had never envisioned that some ships would be going through that would only fit exactly in the locks with only enough spare space so that the water could flow around the ship. We have now progressed to the 2nd Panama Locks where post-panamax ships can go through and we saw a few of them waiting today. They are either too long for the old locks or too wide or both.

Still it delayed us and the wish of the Captain for the ship to be docked in Colon by 16.00 hrs. was not going to be fulfilled and we were docked there just after 17.00 hrs. Hopefully the guests who were on the dock by 16.00 hrs. took his advice and parked themselves in the Bar with a cool drink in their hands. It is a very satisfying way to wait and see your “apartment” arriving and being parked in front of you.

With high ships like the Zuiderdam we sometimes have 4 mules aft. Then the very last ones make fast on the mooring deck and the two more forward give out a wire to the Lower promenade deck where we have special Panama Canal bollards installed on the walk around deck. We have then 2 officers aft, one on the mooring deck and one on the higher deck  3.

For the officers on the bridge and fore and aft, the main duty during a Panama Canal operation is to monitor and keep track of what the Canal people are doing. The pilots bring their own sailor crew and their own tugboats, and while going in and out of the locks they have the locomotives or mules control the ship.

Maintaining the ships log on the bridge is the core duty. Since the grey mists of time, ships have maintained ships logs which note the most important things that happen to ensure there are records for just in case………………… In the old days, until about 10 years ago, it was with paper and pen, and then the electronic logs came. For each situation a template was developed and the Assistant officer of the watch fills in the blanks. For the odd situation that there is no template, there is a Free text option to cover the situation.

This is one of the templates which are used to ensure proper log keeping.

The officers fore and aft pass on the information about the entering and leaving the locks and when the locomotives have been made fast or have been released by the Panama Canal Crew. The handling of the wires from the locomotives are about the most dangerous part of the whole evolution so the officers on the mooring decks are watching like hawks to ensure that the work is done safely and with regard for the ships property. Occasionally a tugboat needs to be made fast and that is normally done by the ship’s crew as it mostly occurs when the Panama Canal pilot is not yet on board. Like when we have to wait as the entering of the locks has been delayed.

Tonight at 20.00 we will sail again and head for Puerto Limon in Costa Rico. That will be full speed and even with an hour back it is a very tight schedule. Weather for tomorrow, light winds and temperature of 27oC or 80 oF, with a 50% chance of a shower in the early afternoon.

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