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Ocean Liner History and Stories from the Sea, Past and Present. With an In Depth focus on Holland America Line

Category: Uncategorized (page 9 of 9)

01 Dec. 2016; St. Johns, Antigua.

Sailing into St. Johns Antigua is bit more complicated than sailing into Charlotte Amalie where the water is deeper and there is more room to swing.  St. Johns lies deep in a natural bay but it is a very shallow bay. Almost so shallow that by the time you dock, there is hardly any water left under the keel.  Regular dredging is taking place and they were doing so today as well; using the soil for shoring up the shore.

Coming from deep sea the ship approaches the pilot station and at once the depth gets a lot less. But still good progress can be made with 10 to 15 feet under the keel. Still the speed into port is then regular between 10 and 12 knots. You can try to go faster but the ship simply will not do it as the displaced water needs the time to flow away from under the keel. Then when coming to the dock the water depth is reduced to 5 feet or less at some places and then the ship becomes really sluggish in handling. Again because the water which is pushed away by the ship needs time to flow under and around the hull. Increasing power on the bow thrusters and Azipods does not help very much because of this delay. If you give too much power and the water starts flowing then you might overshoot (or bump into the pier) and have to counter act again. The lecturer at my Maritime Academy always said; it is like a very small man dancing with a very big lady, you have to guide, you cannot force, as then you lose control when the lady starts to sway over the dance floor.

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White is deep water and the bluer it gets the more shallow it is. This shot of the electronic charts shows the departure route for this evening.

Thus the docking took some time today; the ship had to be inched forward slowly but steadily as the heritage pier where we docked ends up straight into the town center and thus you do not want to overshoot. Guests on deck could see the sand billowing in the water all around the ship indicating that there was not much clearance left under the keel. This evening when we sail out, we will have the same thing again, it will be a slow maneuver in the basin. First because the basin is not much longer than the length of the ship, and secondly during the 180 turn all that water on the port side that is being pushed away has to flow to the starboard side to fill the void.

St. Johns has two finger piers and can accommodate 4 mega ships if needed. Today we only had the Regal Princess in with us but together we brought just short of 6000 guests ashore so enough for the shopkeepers to be happy. The Regal Princess is much bigger than us but does not have that much more draft as the ship is wider. If you need stability for a box of a certain size, you need a certain amount of weight inside. Think about a tin can in your bath tub. No water inside and it can easily fall over. Fill it up and it sinks. Fill it so that it is level with the outside water level and it nicely bobs up and down in the tub. The same principle goes for the ships. They higher they go, the less weight there is in the lower part. So they can fall over. If you put more ballast in the bottom, they will become stable but the draft increases. If you make the ship wider, you can put the same amount of ballast in but divided over a larger area and the draft will not increase.  That is one of the reasons why large ships such as the Oasis of the Seas do not fall over while they are much higher than other big cruise ships.

Rat Island is to the far left. We used to dock there with the ss Rotterdam who with 32 feet draft could not get to downtown.

Rat Island is to the far left. We used to dock there with the ss Rotterdam who with 32 feet draft could not get to downtown.

If a ship has too much draft and you still want to go to St. Johns it can dock at Rat Island at the beginning of the bay but that is a long trek into town for the guests. This hardly happens anymore and now it is mainly a cargo terminal. Containerships dock here and today there was a Japanese Car Carrier, no doubt delivering new Japanese cars.

Tonight we will make the hop to St. Lucia and we will feel the same movement as last night. Nice and steady ship and then each time when it came out of the lee of one of the islands, the light swaying of the ship on the ocean waves until it came in the lee again of the next islands. We will pass Guadeloupe, Martinique and Montserrat so will gently roll several times. Tomorrow we will be in Castries St. Lucia where they are forecasting rain again, which we have hardly seen since San Juan and so we will just wait and see. Temperatures will be the same again 84oC / 29oC.

30 Nov. 2016; Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas, U.S.V.I.

As we were going to dock nbr.1 (That is all the way in the corner) we were in position by 07.00 hrs. due to the other ships following us, well ahead of our scheduled docking time. In the old days there used to be the “Pink Hotel” and a nice open air Pub on the pier but it had all been taken over by new buildings with shops. But Shops bring in more money than yachtie’s who come for a drink, so progress has to be.  Also in the Good old days the pier could easily handle four cruise ships of the Statendam size but now it was a tight fit with three. Behind us was the Norwegian Epic and later on the Regal Princess showed up and thus the whole pier was full.

Somehow the phrase "Apartment of the Seas" comes to mind. This is the stern of the Norwegian Epic.

Somehow the phrase “Apartment of the Seas” comes to mind. This is the stern of the Norwegian Epic.

I went ashore for about 20 minutes as Havensight has a very nice bookshop with normally a good selection of shipping books. According to the internet the shop was still there but when I arrived the wooden doors were firmly shut and not a soul, let alone a librarian, was insight. Well at least it kept the world in balance. They did not sell anything and I did not buy anything. Normally I also try to buy the latest postcards, but there were issues from 10 years ago as nobody sends postcards anymore. The post office on the dock is gone because of it and instead the Pubs now advertise “Beer with free Wi-Fi”. I wonder if they also have that available in Tin Cans or in Bottles.

The sheltered harbor of Charlotte Amalie.

The sheltered harbor of Charlotte Amalie. This photo is from a few years ago before they extended the pier so it could take three much larger ships.

Charlotte Amalie has a beautiful natural and sheltered harbor and thus it has always been an important place in the Caribbean. First it was a shelter for pirates, we still have the name Bluebeards Castle as a result of it and when the Danish took it over it became an important trading post. They called the place Charlotte Amalie after their Queen, although it was originally called Taphus (house of draft) meaning there was a brewery there. So the Danish had their priorities right, you first built a pub and the town around it will grow by itself. In 1917 it was bought by the USA and since then it is American territory. The cruise boom here started very slowly to gather pace after tourists could not go to Cuba any longer. Before that time cruise ships called here as well but it was marginal. Holland America came here already in the 1930’s and one of the captains (Commodore Barendse) had a house here not far from where the Cable Car now runs. He had bought it together with a passenger of Dutch decent and each time the ss Statendam (III) would sail in, he had a house boy raise the Dutch flag.

the ss Statendam (III) used to cruise extensively to the West Indies during the winter months of the 1930's.

The ss Statendam (III) used to cruise extensively to the West Indies during the winter months of the 1930’s.

Slowly but steadily the tourist trade increased not in the least because Charlotte Amalie is a Freeport. No taxes. This was instigated by the Danish and the Americans left it as is. Thus in the 70’s when RCCI and Carnival start to bring mass tourism to the port, cheap booze was a big draw. When I went there in 1981 and 1982 and if we were at anchor, we had to make one or two tender runs to load all the booze for the guests. If we had 7000 guests then there were at least 300 boxes. Invariably there was then a freebie box for the Captain, the Hotel manager and the Cruise Director. As we, the deck department who had to do the work did not get anything, it was standard procedure that either the Hotel manager or the Cruise Director lost a box during transport. (It depended on who was the least popular………..)  Then in the 90’s the emphasis shifted more to quality shopping and we saw a large increase in Jewelry and Electronics shops. Now with the mega ships it has become a complete village which easily handles 5000 people on the Havensight dockside, let alone what downtown can take care of as well.

We will sail this evening for St. Johns Antigua. Today we were supposed to have quite a bit of rain but most of it bypassed the harbor and I hope for the same tomorrow as the weather will be similar. It cannot be much different as Antigua is not that far away. Again it will be warm to hot 82o F / 28oC with a fair chance of showers. Also here we will park right in downtown.

29 Nov. 2016; San Juan, Puerto Rico.

San Juan is a port which is often on the cruise schedules with an abnormal arrival time. Whereas in most ports we are docked by 08.00 in the morning and stay a full day, San Juan is the exception to the norm. They only time ships seem to arrive there early is when it is their last port of call or when they do a longer loop cruise. Today was not different. The Crystal Serenity was docked by 10.30; the Oosterdam was docked by 11.00 hrs. The Eurodam was docked by 13.00 hrs. and the Freedom of the Seas started docking at 14.00 hrs. Then at 14.30 the Celebrity Silhouette came in who was not even on the pilot’s schedule. All we are now waiting for (4 pm. in the afternoon, while I am writing this) is the arrival of the Regal Princess. We had much less wind than expected today as the wind suddenly changed from East South East to South West and then dropped down to almost zero. Very usual for San Juan. The South West winds, when blowing, can bring in quite a bit of rain but as the wind change came at 09.00 hrs. there is a fair chance it will remain dry until at least the early evening hours. It will all depend on when the wind gathers force again.

Sailing into San Juan harbour is always nice. This is Morro Castle seen when looking back to sea.

Sailing into San Juan harbour is always nice. This is Morro Castle seen when looking back to sea.

We arrived nicely in the way I had described yesterday, except the pilot came out early not doubt inspired by the nice weather and thus we were docked earlier and that meant the ship cleared well before our scheduled arrival time. San Juan is one of those ports where you are right on top of the town. Walk out of the gate and up the hill and then you only have to aim for the old city. Docking at 1 West is even better but the Oosterdam is really to long for the dock to be comfortable and thus the port authorities prefer the longer ships at berth 3 and 4. Berth 4 has a terminal constructed about 15 years ago but berth 3, of a more recent date, is just an open space. You wonder why but  my assumption is that if they would have made the dock wider to construct a terminal, then the distance between a ship at 3 East and 4 West would have become a little tight so to speak.

Berths 3 and 4. Berth 3 completely flat and berth 4 with a terminal on it.

Berths 3 and 4. Berth 3 completely flat and berth 4 with a terminal on it.

This means that ships that have San Juan as a home port will have to be assigned to berth 4 for luggage and clearance purposes. I do not know if there is currently a large ship home porting in San Juan but Holland America did so for a year with the ms Veendam, when the ship was new, and it turned out to be quite a challenge with flight arrangements and lots of moaning guests who were greatly affected by the heat when coming out of the airport and then having to lug their suitcase(s) to the taxi. The idea behind it was: if you start a cruise in the Caribbean then you can offer more ports as you do not have the sea time between Florida and Puerto Rico. Great Idea but our guests preferred embarking in a US port. Easier to get to and the sea days were to be appreciated as well.

No doubt the Authorities will do something about this one. Ropes touching the catwalk is not good for anybody.

No doubt the Authorities will do something about this one. Ropes touching the catwalk is not good for anybody.

When we docked today, the officer on the aft mooring deck was not a happy camper. The port authority had decided to install a catwalk to the last stern bollard to make the handling of the mooring lines easier and saving the linesmen the hassle of having to climb onto the bollard, secure the rope, climb down again in their boat and then go and get the next mooring line. Great idea but when you put a catwalk there you have to take into consideration where the ropes need to go to and install it in such a way that it does not hamper the free running of those ropes. The catwalk had been installed yesterday and we were the first ship “to benefit” from it. By the time I took the photo, the Port Director was on the dock and already indicating that the catwalk had to be shifted so it did not block the ropes any longer. So we will see next time. Luckily with today’s weather it does not matter that much but when it is very windy and the stern ropes need to take a lot of strain it would have been unpleasant.

Tonight we sail at 23.00 hrs. and so will the Eurodam as we both go to St. Thomas.  Who goes first will depend on whose guests are back on board the earliest. For the distance and approach it does not matter. For the captain whose ship goes out first it has the benefit as he will be off the bridge first and can get to bed first as well. The Eurodam will dock at Crown Bay and the Oosterdam will go to downtown to Havensight. We would normally have gone to Crown Bay as well but the Oasis of the Seas is in port and then she goes to Crown Bay as it is a better fit there with the dock.

Weather for tomorrow in Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas: Same as today, Warm but with more wind expected.

28 Nov. 2016; At sea, day 2.

Last evening we sailed out of the protection of the Bahamas and Cuba and came into the open waters of the North Atlantic. The area is fairly quiet, or better said the North Atlantic further North of us is fairly quiet as there is not much of a swell rolling in and thus the Oosterdam is sailing through the water in a nice and stable way. Good for everybody, as they could enjoy a carefree sunny day. For most of the day we sailed above the Dominican Republic and then during the night we will cross the Mona Passage located between the Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico, with the plan to arrive at the pilot station of San Juan at 09.45 in the morning.  We arrive at 09.45 at the pilot station because the Crystal Serenity is scheduled for 10.00 hrs. She is going to berth 1 west while we are going to 4 West. The docks are counted from the sea inwards and thus if we sail in just before the Crystal S. then we do not have to wait for them while they make the turn into the 1 dock as 4 dock is further inwards.

I mentioned yesterday that we were expecting two other ships but in the meantime the list has become much longer. We will now be joined by the Eurodam (docking next to us) the Freedom of the Seas , the Regal Princess, the Crystal Serenity, the Silver Wind and the Club Med.  Which means it is going to be busy in San Juan. Even when keeping the pax. count low, we are looking at 12,500 guests coming ashore from the ships, sometime during the day.  It will certainly mean that the T shirts will not be on discount tomorrow.

The Puerto Rican trench running from above the Dominican Republic to the East.

The Puerto Rico trench running from above the Dominican Republic to the East.

Sailing towards Puerto Rico, we come across a natural phenomenon which most guests will not notice as it located under water. It is the Puerto Rico Trench which is one of the deepest places in the world. Laying to the north of Puerto Rico it has a length of 800 kilometers (497 miles) long and a maximum depth of 8,648 meters (28,373 ft.) or 5.373 Miles. Not as deep as the Mariana trench near the Philippines but still deep, very deep. All the Caribbean islands are from volcanic origin (something you can see very well when we will pass the mountains near Soufriere on St. Lucia) but the whole area is dormant. The mountain range which tops are the islands were caused by a minor tectonic plate, the Caribbean plate, pushing over the much larger North American plate. The North part of this minor plate is now sitting on top of the large plate and has thus cut off the direct connection with the earth’s fluid inner core. Not completely as we still have a very active Volcano on Montserrat, more to the south east, which crated a lot of mayhem a few years ago.  The Puerto Rican trench is a crack on the North side of this plate and goes much deeper down than the ocean floor around it, which is not shallow either with depths of up to 5 or 6 thousand feet. Because of the tectonic plate movement and the depth, landsides are easily possible, creating tsunamis and also earth quakes can occur.

Our course (red) when going in, as seen on the Electronic chart.

Our course (red) when going in, as seen on the Electronic chart. The black line is the track the ship used last time and you can see with the bulge near the dock that the captain went “high” to compensate for the strong Trade Wind.

When we line up tomorrow morning for going in we will do that several miles from the entrance itself. The sail into port is nearly directly south (the leading lights are 181o, with south being 180o) and to get a feeling for the set of the current, the captain will try to get in the leading lights very early as the entrance is not very wide and the shallows are very close by. Then the pilot will board, outside if it is not too bouncy or otherwise when we are just inside. Once past Morro Castle on the portside, we will lose all the current and most of the wind. Then we have a 50 degree turn to port to head for the downtown docks. San Juan is a very large and natural harbor and there are a lot of docks much deeper into the Laguna than where we are going. Next step is to keep a lookout for small airplanes as they built the runway right in the line of the entrance channel. Then we come to the dock and we turn north again. This will bring the Trade wind full on the sb side of the ship and thus the captain has to ensure that he “stays high” otherwise the ship will drift against the cruise ship docked at pier 3 east.  Although we always enjoy visiting the neighbors, drifting against each other is not the way to do it.

We will stay in San Juan until 23.00 hrs. as it is only a short hop to St. Thomas, just around the corner. More about that tomorrow. Weather for tomorrow: Fair chance of showers and 29oC / 84oF with a gentle breeze in the city.

 

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